Ahh, the classic rotator cuff problems. Post your questions here.http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/list.php?3Tue, 07 Sep 2010 21:44:38 -0500 Phorum 5.2.9a http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,591,591#msg-591 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,591,591#msg-591 Ssully ShouldersThu, 02 Sep 2010 16:27:12 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,552,552#msg-552 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,552,552#msg-552
I've been reading posts on this site for a while now - great resource!

While gym-climbing i was standing on a small hold with my left foot. My right foot was heel hooking around the corner of an arch. My right hand was on a small left-facing edge slightly to the right of my body's centre (where my left foot is) and at about chest height. The move is to then reach your left hand way out to the left and back (behind you a little) to grab a large ledge-ish hold. I grabbed that ledge. My feet were far to the right and the majority of my bodies weight was being supported by the fingertips of my fully outstretched left arm (which is now at about a 100-degree angle from my torsoe). I did this statically. While in this position, and while trying to match hands on that ledge, I felt pain in my mid-bicep. Later on the same climb i tried to shake out my shoulder (by making a windmill-like motion with my left arm and it was extremely stiff). Now, a few days later, my mid-bicep is less sore, my left pec and left upper back/shoulder are very sore and so too is the area up and inside my left arm-pit (upper bicep, i reckon).

I had/have some shoulder impingement and do ratator cuff-strengthening exercises regularily.

Any idea what i may have done? I’m sure the answer is rest but I’m supposed to be going on a canoe trip in about a week and that will likely work those muscles pretty hard.

Thanks for any help you may be able to provide. It’s much appreciated.

Cheers,
Ari]]> ari ShouldersTue, 10 Aug 2010 22:23:57 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,548,548#msg-548 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,548,548#msg-548This is a fairly lengthy story I'm afraid. But it started approximately one year ago, climbing a particularly strenuous route, i felt a sharp pain in my shoulder on a gaston. I came down and stopped climbing. For a week after that my shoulder seemed to drop out of the socket when i was doing nothing in particular, e.g carrying light shopping. I went to the doctor in my home town, who referred me to the hospital physiotherapist, by this time, my shoulder had stopped falling out of place, but was sensitive to overhead pulling motions (as if on a gaston) and would pop severely out of place when i would reenact the motion. The lovely doctor told me that it was nothing to worry about, my shoulder blade is just catching on my ribs causing a jerking motion, this sounded a bit stupid, and i should have refuted what he said, but i didn't want to make a fuss, and when i questioned him about it, it seemed that he was set on that being the problem. SO, changed my GP and got a second opinion from another doctor, who gave a much more reasonable explanation, saying that it looked like a partial dislocation or subluxation? i can't remember if an x-ray was done, but i was referred to the physiotherapist at different hospital, who told me that the GP was probably right and referred me to the hospital to get an ultrasound done. In the mean time my shoulder did feel okay to climb on, as long as i avoided the use of gastons, so i climbed as usual, as long as it didn't strain my shoulder. Moving my arm from the gaston position sometimes felt as if it locked and as if it were about to pop, so i refrained from doing this. The time came for the ultrasound, and he examined my shoulder, and i saw my arm drop downwards out of my shoulder then going back in its place again. Then another appointment was booked to talk about my ultra sound results with the orthopaedics who made me move my arm around a bit, and concluded that there may be damage to the cartillage in the joint between my arm and my shoudler, to clarify this sent to get an MRI, the MRI showed that there was no damage to the cartillage but there was an increase in fluid towards the top that particular joint (im sorry i don't know its name) maybe the glenohumeral joint? And he pressed my shoulder and asked me if it hurt, i said no. He then explained that human's have a skeletal structure different to monkeys which is not designed for excess overhead/overarm activities, humans have a small bridge shaped bone on the top of the shoulder which wears away due to age, but activities such as climbing or swimming can wear it down more quickly and that is what has happened to me. He said it can occur from anyone from the age of 21 upwards. But there was nothing i can do about it. And that was that.
I'm 21 and have been frequently climbing for one year and a half, i've just found your site which is quite incredible, thanks for the resource! I've read your section of shoulder injuries and it sounds like i have a Slap tear? and i was wondering is there anything that can still be done to help my shoulder one year after injury, although it doesn't pop as severely as it once did, it still pops and locks fairly frequently. I don't experience pain. Thank you so much for your time reading this, it is a bit lengthy, but i've been referred everywhere to try and fix this problem, to be told it's unfixable!!!! I would like a 3rd opinion :)
If what i have written isn't so clear in places, please ask me to expand on what i have said.
Thanks infinately,
Oli]]> Healthy Finger ShouldersWed, 04 Aug 2010 23:28:37 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,539,539#msg-539 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,539,539#msg-539i hate having to rest normally but i really dont want to this time because i have a competition in two days.
basically does anyone know if i can climb in two days without causing myself permanent and serious injury?
i dont mind it hurting so long as im not really damaging myself, and i really wanna go to this comp.

please could someone (ideally a doctor who is also a climber) reply asap!
louis :)]]> louisparkinson ShouldersWed, 04 Aug 2010 23:32:02 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,492,492#msg-492 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,492,492#msg-492
3 weeks ago i was climbing and i had my right arm extended and tried to pull and i heart a cracked on my right shoulder. After i came down from the rock it was not a particular pain. The next day i was start having pain when i was moving my hand up closing to the 90 degrees and i was feeling my bicept really pumped!!! My hand though has all the movements but it causes pain when it comes close to the shoulder. It also pains when i put my right hand on my right hip.

In the morning i feel my shoulder really stiff. I havent climbed since then, i had 1 week treatment of relaxing it and taking arcoxia pills and icing it. I dont feel any shoulder unstability. i also feel that is becoming weaker

The doctor and physio suspects that i may have tenonditis of the rotator cuff. i did 8 sessions of physiotherapy but it stills pains but it is improved though

What do you think it is? shall i start slowly slowly doing some exercses to empower my hand and shoulder?

I want to climb for long years and i dont want to damage my shoulder!!!

I just feel helpless after so much icing and physiotherapies that i really want to start doing exercises in order to prepare to go out on the rock again.!!

Please tell me your opinions.

Do you think my problem is more serious does they say??

Thanks guys!!

Tassos]]> tagathangelou ShouldersThu, 01 Apr 2010 15:36:01 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,484,484#msg-484 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,484,484#msg-484
I want to start by saying this site is a GREAT resource and you are a very generous person to put your time into it as you are a professional and probably spend your day hearing the same sort of things over and over. So, in advance, THANKS!

Anyway, I'll try to keep this as short as possible while including all the relevant tidbits. One morning in August 2008 I woke up to find my left shoulder in considerable "aching" pain, so much so that I couldn't put my shirt on. This seemed to come out of nowhere, I hadn't had any previous shoulder pain, mild or severe, and in the previous days I had been climbing easy, vertical routes well below my limit, setting up top-ropes for beginners. I went to my campus's health clinic and, while they didn't say what I did to myself, they recommended time off. So I took the whole fall and winter off ( I needed a break anyway...).

So in March it's been many months since I've climbed and I assume whatever happened has to be fixed, and I started climbing again. About a month in, once I start getting back on harder boulder problems, the pain comes back, but more of a deep, dull ache and I could tolerate it and climb through it initially but it definitely didn't feel good or right. I would wake up some mornings with limited range of motion and general weakness with flexion and abduction above my chest. So once it became obvious it wasn't going away I threw the towel in again, for about 4-5 months this time.

Instead of jumping back into climb, whether easy or hard, I thought it would be prudent to strengthen my shoulder first. So using a Theraband I did general shoulder exercises, nothing over-the-top or over-aggressive. And that flared up my shoulder pain/ ache. Being pretty frustrated, I gave up until now (4-5 months later, or 1.5 years after first symptoms). The weather is getting nice and I'd really like to climb again, so I decided to try strengthen my shoulder as softly/ slowly as possible, so I started doing Codman Exercises/ shoulder circles every once in a while. I kept it very light/ easy, not even doing them until I felt tired, but that STILL flared up my shoulder.

SO... do I have something more serious going on than I think? Or will I just have to rehabilitate through the initial pain? Any advice/ insight you have would be greatly appreciated. I think I should also mention during my "rest" months my shoulder felt fine- full range of motion, etc. The only other abusive activity I do is mountain biking, which can be very abusive indeed, but never really flares my shoulder up. Separately, last summer I was diagnosed with a kidney disorder that is worsened with Ibuprofen- do you have any anti-inflammatory substitute recommendations that are kidney friendly? I used to rely on "vitamin I" heavily. Thank you thank you thank you!

-Alex]]> screeeeename ShouldersThu, 01 Apr 2010 15:33:58 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,470,470#msg-470 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,470,470#msg-470 ace_mon ShouldersMon, 22 Feb 2010 15:08:32 -0600 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,430,430#msg-430 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,430,430#msg-430
In late October I took a bad mountain bike fall onto my left shoulder. Didn't hurt that day but was really painful to even move slightly for a few days after. It was pain free within a week and a half or so. I went to a bouldering competition where only me 4 or 5th problem, a compression one, it hurt really really bad. I saw a sports chiropractor for 2 sessions for a week after, but again it was pain free within 2 weeks so I went back to climbing hard.
For the last 1/3 of November and almost all of December I bouldered and climbed hard, v8-9 5.13's, with mild discomfort during/after climbing providing an extensive warm-up and stretching. I mildly hurt a pulley in my left hand in late December and decided it would be good to rest my shoulder considering I only gave it 1-2 weeks of rest. I saw the chiropractor again for 2 weeks at which time it became pain free again, even while doing push ups, pull-ups, lifting etc. The chiropractor said he was pretty sure it was a strain/tendinitis of the Coracoid Process, a piece of bone that is the connection site of many muscles and tendons in the shoulder. So I joined a crossfit gym. This past weekend we were doing olympic lifts, clean, jerk/squat etc. and My shoulder flared up again.
So I decided to take a full 5-6 weeks off from any arm/upper body activity and continue the treatments at the chiropractor which I seemed to respond well too. The chiropractor does not think its anything serious but I want to just have it checked out so he agreed to write me a script for a shoulder MRI. My logic tells me it is probably not that bad judging on my quick recovery so far and short rest time. But given the more recent reports of shoulder surgery due to torn Labrum's in many of climbing's best, Beth Rodden, Chris Webb Parsons, and more recently Patxi Usobiaga I am getting increasingly nervous of something that might require surgery, despite the doctor's information that it does not seem that way.

Any opinions?

Thanks guys...]]> ltj999 ShouldersMon, 22 Feb 2010 15:03:43 -0600 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,423,423#msg-423 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,423,423#msg-423
I'm posting this here because the symptoms do not seem consistent with the already available resources. About 3 weeks ago I sustained an injury that manifested itself as a sharp pain at the top of my shoulder at the very end of my collar bone. There was no perceptible deficit to either my range of motion or strength output but I decided to take a few days rest.

I've slowly ramped my climbing activity back up as a form of 'active rest' over the past weeks and the pain has mostly subsided with the exception of if I sleep on that shoulder or press on the injured location.

Today I was looking in the mirror and I noticed for the first time try as I might I was unable to flex the trapezius on my injured side. Again I cannot feel any deficit to range of motion or strength output aside from a mild pain in some motions.

Needless to say, I find myself somewhat concerned. Any thoughts?

Ben.]]> Machineabuse ShouldersSun, 24 Jan 2010 14:30:08 -0600 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,416,416#msg-416 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,416,416#msg-416I dislokatet my right shoulder 5 days ago whily doing a very hard gaston move on a tecnical face-route. I am not sure but i think my foot slipped and then catching a lot of waight in one arm. I felt a "pop" in my shoulder and it felt dislokatet. back on the ground it "popped" back again (au!!). Then while moving my arm it popped in and out 2 times again. Later an x-ray showed it had been dislokatet but no tears. now i'm sitting here with one arm fixet in a sling and a very sorre shoulder.
Anyone tried this and how far away are future gaston moves?
Greetings from a frustrated Danish climber]]> thomasdenmark ShouldersWed, 03 Mar 2010 10:03:18 -0600 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,386,386#msg-386 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,386,386#msg-386
Tricky one this... I was out in Kaly two weeks ago and climbed, probably without warming up enough. Spent a day red-pointing a particular route and notice a very, very slight ache the following day in my shoulder. I didn't climb much after that due to a separate finger tendon tweak (which is now completely painless). But strangely, the shoulder has worsened to the point where it's quite 'uncomfortable' throughout the day. Typically a dull ache which is aggravated with particular movement.

Specifically, I have mild soreness at the top of the mid-deltoid (right side) which worsens during the motion from hands-by-side to arm-straight-out in front of me. Slightly worse if my palm faces up when performing the movement. I cannot detect any inflammation, redness or warmth.

I've not climbed or exercised for 10 days to rest it. Weirdly, there's little sign of it going away.

Any thoughts?

My plan is to see an Osteo/Chiro etc after the weekend if it's no better.

Nathan]]> thebadgerrogers ShouldersMon, 23 Nov 2009 16:03:48 -0600 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,373,373#msg-373 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,373,373#msg-373
Right so my shoulder left one to be precise has always been a little weird, for a few years it felt as if it were vulnerable thats the best way I can discribe it. No pain no uncomfortable sensations a few times tho it sublaxed I had no idea what had happened at the time but according to the physio a few years on this is what oocured. I had no pain after the sublaxing none at all until I had another minor one and I stress minor as tho it werre only on the verge a tweak you might say. It was a little tender for a few dyas after but then no worries. ( This is going back two years ago ) Since then I had always been very cautious with the way I moved and what style of climbing I pursued. So bouldering is my game and as if its not obvious intense!
Last year I noticed my left hand felt a little numb a weird sensation no pain just felt like I couldnt squeeze the crap out of things like usual, I visited a physio did some excercies which seemed neither here nor there just rasing my arm in front of me basically.

I had no troubles for a while just always felt nervous about my shoulder and the weird numb hand occasionally. This year I saw another physio who was really good he gave me some awesome massages and released strained muscles or trigger points thats what i remeber, after a while he put me in touch with a trainer who started helping me with excercises he was very good even helped with the weirdness in my hand. Anyhow Im sure I have rambled on long enough I moved overseas away from the awesome guys who I cant get in touch with AND tweaked my shoulder again this time not severely just felt it funk a little when I hit a huge throw to a gaston (the exact movement I have been avoiding smart huh? ) before this I was climbing in excellent shape and actually had more confidence then ever in my shoulder.

So I went to traing that week and it didnt feel right not sore at all not even in the slightest but just not right so I had a rest for a week then caught the swine flu and was out for another two, I ve had almost a month off now and I feel no pain just a weird I guess you would say weak sensation or vulnerable again, which makes my left hand feel you guessed it numb/weak I have no pain just a weird sensation occasionally.

Are there some excercies or should I say what excercies would best suit my situation and strengthen my shoulder up I should mention I have an extremely large ape factor or atleast its bigger then normal so my shouldrs I feel arent caught up with the rest of my body just in case this helps visualise what is going on.

So if anyone has some information they think might shed some light on the situation I would greatly appreciate it.]]> geologicaldesire ShouldersSun, 08 Nov 2009 12:45:48 -0600 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,351,351#msg-351 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,351,351#msg-351
Now, I am back with a new problem in my left shoulder that I don't know how to diagnose. Its a sharp pain that starts at the backside of my shoulder and follows down to my elbow when I try and lift myself out of a seat using the arm chairs. Its also a constant dull sharp pain yet is okay when I move my arm forward and above my shoulder. I am guessing this could be some arrangement of tight muscles that are squeezing something like a nerve?

I have been stretching my whole arm and shoulder and do not to be looser yet the pain is still there.

any thoughts would really be appreciated.

many thanks:)

jordan]]> jkleinman ShouldersTue, 22 Sep 2009 14:29:09 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,346,346#msg-346 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,346,346#msg-346
Anyone got any experience of this ? Any tips on recovery or exercises ?

Thanks in anticipation]]> fatcat ShouldersThu, 17 Sep 2009 10:44:59 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,345,345#msg-345 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,345,345#msg-345
The pain gradually subsided over the next 6 months, but it has never fully healed. Certain movements will cause a twinge- e.g. lifting something out to the side of me (like putting something onto the passenger seat of the car). Climbing wise- it's very difficult to say what triggers pain as my shoulder doesn't hurt during or immediately after climbing. Some sessions I get away with, but sometimes, 2-3 days after climbing I'll get constant pain in the front of my shoulder and down into the biceps tendon, which can last anything up to a month. I really can't find a pattern- I've gone on 2 week trips, climbing at my limit and been fine, only to have an easy session at the wall 2 weeks later and be laid up for a month...

About 1 month after the pain started I went to my doctor, and got referred to a consultant. I was then sent for an MRI, which came back as showing a small acromial hook and some unexplained flattening to the humeral head. The consulatant told me that I had tendonitis of the biceps tendon and that it would clear up itself. (this process took approx 2 years). I had been half expecting that the MRI might show a SLAP lesion- because I'd had a lot a very strong response to the Crank test and O'Brien test with the physio, but it didn't...

Throughout this time I also went to a physio. I've been following a programme of strengthening and stabilising exercises, under the guidance of the physio. When I get a bad flare up, I can't do this, otherwise I stick to it pretty well- 3 times/ week at least- 5 times if possible. Early in my treatment I did quite a lot of the internal/ external roataion excercises. Now it's more focussed on push-ups, shrugs etc.

I also had a cortisone injection 18 months ago, which seemed to work for a couple of months, but has had no longer term effect.

The longest period of complete rest I've had was 8 weeks, during which the pain got continually worse, and only subsided agin when I resumed some gentle climbing. Complete rest is hard as I also work as an instructor...

If anyone can offer some adivce, it would be greatly apreciated. I would love to get back to a level where I can train regularly.]]> angela ShouldersTue, 22 Sep 2009 14:35:13 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,332,332#msg-332 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,332,332#msg-332
For once, I am doing the smart thing and cancelling all climbing until I get some information more than the fact I'd really like to be climbing right now. I'm taking 800mg of ibuprofen and icing regularly. I have plans to consult a pt friend as well as to get a script for somebody whose job it is here in Phoenix (any recs? Kyle suggested Todd Ellenbecker already, but having more good options is never bad).

Again, the pain isn't something that prevents climbing or hinders my range of motion and I notice no weakness associated with this, it just hurts and has continued to be an ache througout the day. I'm hoping this isn't something physical therapy and time can't take care of...

Thanks for any input! Thanks Kyle for your help already, I appreciate -- as should all climbers -- this resource.]]> zee ShouldersMon, 07 Sep 2009 15:47:35 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,310,310#msg-310 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,310,310#msg-310
Wondering if anyone knows the specifics for the rotator cuff training sequence? Looking for info on reps, how often per week, should I be performing these until failure, etc..

Sincerely,

Climber itching to get back on some granite]]> Travis ShouldersSat, 01 Aug 2009 17:09:17 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,299,299#msg-299 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,299,299#msg-299
I've been climbing about 1.5 years, with most of that time being on plastic. Recently I've been getting outside more, but still probably average 1.5 times/week indoors. I've had a bit of a recurring shoulder issue. After a few weeks of consistently getting to the indoor gym 2x/week, my shoulders specifically start to feel "not tight" - loose is too strong of a word. At the moment, I'm in one of those states. This time, there was a bit more of a specific instance that accelerated the onset - a simple high overhead reach to a downpull hold with a bunch of weight/power on it - that definitely felt like a bunch of shoulder strain. It's been ~ 2 weeks since that instance.

At the moment, neither shoulder hurts, but upon extending either arm and rotating the extended arm to reach for the sky or extend parallel to the ground, there's a small but audible click. Each shoulder also feels not as tight as it normally does, but they're definitely not flopping around crazily either. In the past when this sort of thing has happened, I've taken a couple of weeks off and then done some rotator cuff strengthening exercises and eased back into climbing. Admittedly, I'd lapsed in the rotator cuff training prior to this latest bit.

So, does taking a couple of weeks off from climbing sound about right? There's no pain at the moment, just the clicking and slight instability. How soon is it ok to being shoulder strengthening exercises? In the future, I'm planning on just being more consistent with the shoulder exercises, and trying to spend more time climbing outside, and vary the type of indoor climbing a bit more. Sound like a plan?]]> joko ShouldersSat, 27 Jun 2009 06:47:35 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,296,296#msg-296 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,296,296#msg-296I was climbing 1 week ago, and I hurt my right shoulder. Heres what happened - I was pulling up with my right arm supporting all my weight on it doing a really reachy move, and lost my footing and flew off the wall, but at the same time somehow twisted my right arm around. My arm didn't hurt after the incident, I was actually able to keep climbing pain free. The next day was when I felt it, and i've felt it every day since then. I feel it right at the back of my shoulder, when I move my arm from side to side or up and down...or when i try to pull something towards me (even worse when I grab something and pull, not necessarly weakness, but a somewhat of a pain/strength stabbing in the back of my shoulder issue?) The pain has gotten a little better since the initial injury.
I talked with one of my friends who is big into other sports (not climbing) and he said it def. sounds like rotator cuff...but that isn't what i want to hear! I want to be able to just rest a day or two and get back out there...I'm somewhat new to climbing, so i've never had an injury like that so I don't really know what to do from here...Should I even attempt light climbing to see if I have the pain during it? Any input would be appreciated!]]> pinkbird ShouldersMon, 22 Jun 2009 21:04:38 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,261,261#msg-261 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,261,261#msg-261
I have been a rock climber for 4 years now (sport 11c, trad 10a-b). In april 2008 I "pulled a muscle" while hanging from a completely horizontal boulder. The symptom was an acute pain in the muscles attaching to the left scapula (specially the one to the far left of it), and frequently in the muscles between the scapula and the spine -a lot of times I have a spasm there. I also tend to have a spasm in the top of the left shoulder (but i think I had that before...). The pain tends to be worse in periods of stress (eg. Mid-terms, final examinations), and also a few hours after exercising -or even the next day. Warm showers and rest tend to improve the pain, however sometimes it comes back even after a week of zero exercise.

In April 2008 I saw 2 general practitioners and a orthopedist. I had X-Rays and everyone coincided on a "soft tissue" problem. I went to 10 physical therapy sessions, and then to 10 more for a total of 20. In the physical therapy sessions I was applied cold-heat, ultrasound, electric current and massage. I was encouraged by the Physiotherapist to stretch-out as much as possible (which I have done a lot ever since -doing the "standard climber's" stretch exercises), and also to exercise using a theraband.

I finished physical therapy in July 2008 (I completely stopped climbing for a month or so, then only did "easy 5.7-5.9 trad" for a few months).

Since then I have stretched a lot and tried to keep up with the theraband exercises. Simultaneously I restarted climbing, but I haven't been able to sustain a proper training routine, nor achieve my prior performance. After every training session I have pain for the next 2-3 days, which I "treat" by "stretching" and "resting". I also try to "auto massage" my back. This has been more or less the routine for the last 7 months (climbing-pain-rest-climbing-pain-rest-etc). Haven't been able to really use my training board or campus, because after a session I spend 3 days in pain...

I am fed with this! And I don't trust doctors too much at this point...
My concrete questions, based on your experience and hopefully some professional training are:
-Should I stop exercising at all for a period? If so, how long? (Ive heard this can be worse)
-Should I stretch out my shoulder daily? If so how many times? And how much strength should I put to it? (I have the hunch stretching everyday makes it worse... of course I have to stretch before climbing, but should I do it even in "rest days"?)
-Should I keep on doing theraband exercises?
-Should I seek for more medic opinions?

Thanks a lot! II am very frustrated!

Santiago
(Bogotá, Colombia!)]]> sanarteaga ShouldersWed, 03 Jun 2009 00:10:47 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,259,259#msg-259 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,259,259#msg-259
Is it more likely to be tendonitis or a tear?

Thanks in Advance

P.S I will be seeing a physio in the next couple of weeks (probably after my trip to portland).]]> benb87 ShouldersTue, 19 May 2009 12:34:17 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,233,233#msg-233 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,233,233#msg-233I have previously been very sceptical to baring my soul on the net, but this seems like a serious site with some helpful feedback so I am trying my luck!
I live in Norway so I apologise for some of the technical "jargon" that may be missing from my post/question.

Approximately two years ago I received a hefty blow to my right shoulder/pec. This was diagnosed as whiplash and appeared to repair itself over the time-frame (3 months), my doctor suggested without major difficulties.
Once the discomfort started receding, I embarked, perhaps foolishly, on a comprehensive fingerboard routine that predominanly involved pullups. We also had a heavy snowfall that winter which involved much digging!
After this routine finished I was stronger than I have been previously. A new house also gave me the possibility of a garage board, which is now in place, approx.25 degrees hang, and fairly crimpy. This gets a regular hammering due to family/time constraints! I now boulder a lot more often than sport/trad.

Around the same time I developed a discomfort in my right shoulder which I will expand upon here:

The symptoms I have consistently experienced over the past 12 months include a dull ache in the right shoulder which varies in intensity. As with many of you, this eases considerably while climbing, but often returns a couple of days after a good session. I suspect the mistake I am making is thinking the climbing is medicine! There are no specific positions that give me a "twinge", or acute pain, it is more a constant ache. The other recurring sympton is reduced coordination/tingling in my right hand/arm. I have also experienced tingling in my ring&little finger in my left hand (although this has receded lately) when I wake in the morning, and I am aware of this potentially showing an imbalance in the shoulders. Icing helps every time so I am guessing there is some inflamation that is in need of more rest. How much is too much ice? Is it possible to over-do this treatment?

I have also a number of exercises I use to strengthen the supporting muscle groups, but I am weak on my "front" compared to the pulling muscles.

My doctor has sent me for MRI of my head/neck/shoulder and I have also had a test checking the nerve signals in my arm (sorry I don't know the name! it involved small shocks placed very locally and the speed and response being measured). These tests were all negative (thankfully!). I also had an appointment with a physio at the hospital who was thorough, but I didn't feel he was used to dealing with a typical climbers-physique, and he thought I was good to go.

There is very little pattern in the discomfort, some days it just disappears! I would like to know if any of you have experienced such problems over a longer period of time, and what treatment was the most effective. I am in the process of finding a physio who treats sporting injuries, and the spring being here should mean that the fingerboard and the garage board can gather some dust for a few months. (I also need to get out on the trad more often than these hard sit-starts!)

I am 33, 5'11", just over 11 stone and in good health/fitness otherwise.
I have climbed for 15 years.
Any help / pointers / similar expereinces would be gratefully received!
Thanks very much, and have a good season! Matthew]]> matthew ShouldersWed, 13 May 2009 14:10:52 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,211,211#msg-211 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,211,211#msg-211Since I have had no one incident where I felt like I was pulling too hard on it, I assume it is from Tendinitis from overuse.

Symptoms:
I don't have any pain when I lift my arm up in front of me, but when I lift my arm up away from my body to the side, I have moderate discomfort in my Rotator Cuff at about 30 degrees above horizontal, but I can still lift my arm above my head fine. The most discomfort comes from putting my left hand on my right hip, then lifting up (basically the motion of taking my shirt off with my arms crossed in front of my body.

I should go to the doctors, but I like many others are in between insurance and was hoping that I could reduce the strenuousness of my workouts, take an anit-inflammatory, and ice after use to remedy the situation. Please let me know what your thoughts are about the situation

The odd thing is that my shoulder feels fine when I climb, it just annoys me when I'm not climbing.
Thanks for any advice,
-Brian]]> 32ovy32 ShouldersSat, 18 Apr 2009 19:06:55 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,196,196#msg-196 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,196,196#msg-196
I hurt my rotator cuff a few months ago at least 4 probably 5 went to the physio who was wonderful - looked at me listened to what I said diagnosed the problem, gave me some treatment which replaced the movement I didn't realise I'd lost and I thought all would be well.
It has never quite healed however, the pain is different - originally it was sideways movement - getting into the car and moving my arm over to put my handbag on the passenger seat, now it is not so specific - reaching up behind to get an awkward itch, sometimes but not always palming off a small hold....
I have been doing cuff strengthening exercises as suggested by the physio using therebands which seem to have helped a bit, I'm just concerned as it has changed and is dragging on and wondered if there was anything else I should be doing/not doing?
I have been to the doctor this week, but she was really not very helpful!

Thank you]]> climbingxcat ShouldersWed, 01 Apr 2009 17:20:28 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,38,38#msg-38 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,38,38#msg-38 eline ShouldersTue, 16 Dec 2008 22:08:03 -0600