Welcome to the Climbing Injuries Forumshttp://climbinginjuries.com/forums/index.phpThu, 17 May 2012 23:42:24 +0000 Phorum 5.2.16 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,1112,1112#msg-1112 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,1112,1112#msg-1112Ever since that day, the area hurts when I shake people's hands or do ceratin hand jams (sometimes thumbs down hurts more than thumbs up or vice versa). It doesn't bother me when sport climbing. Actually--hand shaking is the most painful!
Anybody had something like this before????]]> koby1978 What else bothers you?Thu, 17 May 2012 03:47:42 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1111,1111#msg-1111 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1111,1111#msg-1111
This doesn't seem to fit into the normal set of symptoms I see here.

6-7 months ago, when both those joints were especially sore, and I gym-climbed anyway, I suddenly realised I had overdone it and left the gym with my right finger quickly becoming immobile. Actually, every joint was fine except the last one on that middle finger, which I could no longer bend and which the doctor/ hand surgeon eventually splinted up (really, this seems to have been useless and misguided) for a week. After a month, it was fine again, except that the top of that joint and the top of its matching finger on the other hand have been sore ever since.

The thing is, climbing seems to have a fairly weak effect on it. I think they're worse after training, but they don't get much better if I take some time off, and they don't tend to hurt much worse when climbing.
Except that having that knuckle sore can get in the way of happy finger-locks.

I don't tend to climb more than 3 days per week (when not on a road trip / holiday), and I've been climbing (at an intermediate level) for 20 years.

Anyone out there know what I'm talking about?

Many thanks!
Chris]]> cpbl FingersWed, 16 May 2012 17:07:05 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1110,1110#msg-1110 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1110,1110#msg-1110
For the past 5 weeks I've climbed 2 times well below my level. I've done the contrast baths, light massaging, stretching and avoided all weight room exercises that engage a tight grip with the injured finger. Upon pinching the middle part of the my finger, I still feel the same amount of pain as I felt before. Its a little tight as well. The tip of my finger cannot easily touch my palm, where as my left ring finger has much wider range of movement and can easily push into my my upper palm.

I do not have health insurance right so I am seeking some kind of opinion as to other options. I did schedule an appoint a few days from now to see an orthopedic specialist as a last resort.

The problem would not be frustrating if I had made the slightest bit of progress but even with 2-3 weeks of no physical activity (before getting back in the weight room), there was zero change in pain.

Thanks for your time. Please feel free to let me know what you think is going on.]]> jonathandalexander FingersFri, 11 May 2012 19:22:59 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,1105,1105#msg-1105 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,1105,1105#msg-1105
I've been climbing for about 4 years and have been training and climbing consistently (bouldering 3-4 times a week) for about 1 year now. This includes antagonist training of the forearm extensors (reverse wrist curls), triceps, internal rotator cuff muscles, and pronator training along with climbing specific strength exercises and climbing in general. I mainly boulder and am able to climb around the V5-6 range. About 8 years ago I broke my arm snowboarding near the wrist; fracturing the radius and buckling the ulna in my left arm (I am left-handed). When I climb, I do about a 30-45 minute warm up consisting of forearm stretches, light pull-ups, light bouldering/traversing, triceps and shoulder warm-ups. The problem I am having is when I get to the point of climbing where I am really cranking on a hold with my left arm, whether it be an open-hand crimp (I rarely full crimp in the gym) pinch, sloper, what have you, when I release the hold I have a small ache in the middle of my forearm (opposite the palm side, so in the extensor muscles) that sometime radiates throughout the length of the radius and ulna. The pain is rather short, however sometimes it will be an intermittent ache for several hours after climbing but nothing that is debilitating whatsoever. I am sometimes able to generate this same pain when I flex my hand being open (like opposite of a clenched fist) for over 15 seconds. Using my fingers to massage the area, the pain is normally isolated between the bones on my arm. My big question is if any of you think this pain is just an artifact of my broken arm years ago or some other issue. I've run out of ideas from researching
Given rest for about 3-5 days this pain will eventually go away, however every now and then it gets re-tweaked and the ache starts over again. My main goal is to see if anyone knows of a specific exercise that will target some form of muscle that is possibly out of balance to eliminate this problem or if the issue is just with the bones themselves due to the break years ago.
Please feel free to shoot out some ideas!]]> haggardd What else bothers you?Fri, 27 Apr 2012 00:19:47 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,1103,1103#msg-1103 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,1103,1103#msg-1103I'm a 29-year-old climber (mostly sport climbing and bouldering) who's been battling on-again-off-again posterior shoulder pain since about 2005 (I started climbing in 2000).

The pain is an aching, hard-to-pinpoint pain all around the left scapula and posterior shoulder that builds gradually during a climbing session and is most noticeable (at first) during rests between climbs/problems. The pain seems to be more correlated with volume and frequency of climbing than intensity of movement: it doesn't happen every time I climb but is much more likely if I'm climbing regularly than if I'm taking 2-3 days off between days of climbing. The pain typically subsides after an hour or two of rest but can remain noticeable as a low-level soreness for days. On light-pain days, it tends to respond relatively well to ibuprofen.

I've seen several PTs and orthopedic specialists over the years and have tried a host of shoulder-stabilizing exercises and stretches. The ortho I saw several times last year suspected a torn labrum, but my MRI showed no evidence of a torn labrum, just an area of persistent inflammation in the area of the supraspinatus. A steroid shot, followed by a period of rest, physical therapy, and more shoulder stabilization exercises, seemed to keep the pain at bay for several months. Once I started increasing the frequency of my climbing/bouldering sessions to more than once every three days, however, the pain returned.

For bouldering season (winter here in North Carolina), I was able to minimize the frequency of painful sessions by always taking two days off between sessions. Now, however, even that strategy seems to be failing despite continued attention to shoulder stabilization exercises and stretches.

Although climbing infrequently is better than not climbing at all, not being able to climb more than once every three days makes it virtually impossible to take a weekend roadtrip.

Any ideas?]]> edmclen ShouldersSat, 28 Apr 2012 08:19:10 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1102,1102#msg-1102 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1102,1102#msg-1102 philip360 FingersWed, 04 Apr 2012 06:40:50 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?1,1101,1101#msg-1101 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?1,1101,1101#msg-1101
I initially did this injury lifting a large flat pack box by the straps, by bracing my elbows against my hips and lifting up (to about 90 degrees) stacking in front of me. When it got to 90 degrees, I felt a distinct pain DEEP inside here:

[www.flickr.com]
[www.flickr.com]

Immediately after this, after I put the box down, I brought my arm up (hand up to shoulder) and flexed the muscles hard. This is when it really went OUCH.
Maybe a bit silly, but just for good measure, I did the same with the other arm, though not as hard. That almost went too, in the same spot.

After 3 days I returned to the wall, climbed 3 times over the next 2 weeks. I was hoping it would just go away. Obviously if anything I made it worse. Any climbing with my arm straight, was fine. No pain. Climbing with my arms bent, the pain increased the more they were bent.
So I decided enough was enough. I had already been to physio twice. She speculated a few things. Tendon damage. Worked acupuncture in the area which helped slightly for a day or two but over the next couple of weeks it didn't get any better. I have to lift alot at work but managed to avoid most lifting for a couple of weeks. Then one night it flared up and I was in excruciating pain. It swelled up first here:

[www.flickr.com]

Then the bicept went hard. Then below the funny bone. Next the nerve started playing up. My whole arm felt worn and lethargic. Numb hand / fingers. Armpit on fire. and common feeling/pain associated with pinched nerve along whole arm.
Went to get cat scan next day. Apparently nothing wrong with tendons, muscles, or nerve. I went to chiro, who immediately said my Radial Head was out. he knocked it back in and that made a huge difference. I thought I was getting better. Then it fired up again last night. He knocked it back for me today although it's still sore and I think there's something still wrong inside.

Sorry my description was so long. It took a while to write and my arm is sore again :(
This is killing me, not being able to climb. My only other hobby is writing music. So guitar, keyboard etc. No good.

ANY suggestions would be much appreciated x]]> nathancory ElbowsTue, 03 Apr 2012 14:01:42 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?1,1094,1094#msg-1094 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?1,1094,1094#msg-1094
Thanks!]]> keithbives ElbowsSat, 31 Mar 2012 23:16:01 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,1093,1093#msg-1093 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,1093,1093#msg-1093
I've broke my ACL (anterior cruciate ligament - knee) in November 2011. I've decided to try to live and climb without surgery (nonsurgical treatment - progressive physical therapy and rehabilitation).

I was wondering if you know someone with this problem? Is the knee stabile enough to climb normally at all (I'm climbing already but it's paifull to come to the crag)? What about bouldering (i'm not supposed to jump from high places any more)? What about multi-pitch rutes?

Thnx,
Maja :)]]> maja.cro What else bothers you?Tue, 20 Mar 2012 14:19:28 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,1092,1092#msg-1092 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,1092,1092#msg-1092
So 3-4 weeks ago I was bouldering and fell. I kind of hung on with my left arm as it happened and felt a crunch in my shoulder. I'd describe the area as in the softer area right below the bone that juts out to the side at the top of the arm. I had a lot of pain immediately after the fall, and couldnt raise my arm for the following five minutes. It seemed to improve pretty quickly after that and I was doing light climbing by the end of the night.

I didnt think much of it because the only things I found that caused pain were raising my arm straight up over my head and then pushing it further back, and hanging with my arms straight from rings. Climbing doesnt seem to bother it. Then the other day I did pushups and dips without pain, but the following morning I had a lot of dull pain while walking with a backpack.

Trying to find info on the internet has made me nervous because everything seems to say shoulder injuries=immediate doctor visit, but this doesnt seem like it warrants one. Any recovery tips? Im definitely not doing pushups again for a while. When is it safe to start stretching/doing shoulder strengthing exercises? Thanks. This site is great.]]> kjcnyc ShouldersSat, 31 Mar 2012 23:23:17 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1090,1090#msg-1090 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1090,1090#msg-1090
Thanks for any help
Sion]]> sionjones FingersSat, 31 Mar 2012 23:11:44 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1089,1089#msg-1089 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1089,1089#msg-1089 pmcterry FingersSat, 28 Apr 2012 07:56:02 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,1088,1088#msg-1088 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,1088,1088#msg-1088
About me: 23 - climbing for 2 years - mostly bouldering - no previous injury in that location - if it means anything: recently 'leveling up' and working v4s with a lot of dynos and heel and toe hooks.

Any thoughts?]]> yomango What else bothers you?Sat, 25 Feb 2012 15:19:36 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?1,1079,1079#msg-1079 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?1,1079,1079#msg-1079
In a nutshell:
My advice for aching forearms, elbows, and biceps: Try deeply massaging your forearms and maybe your biceps, too. Massage is inexpensive, compared to more invasive medical procedures, and you can start right now. It's the only thing that's worked for me. I use "The Stick" rolling massager every day on my forearms and sometimes on my biceps, especially before and after climbing. There are similar products out there from other companies that may work just as well, but this one works for me. I think the key is to get a forceful massage of the pulling muscles in your arms. A stiffer massager is probably better than a more flexible one. BTW, I have no connection to whoever makes or sells The Stick, I'm just ecstatic that I can climb again.

While you're waiting for the stick to arrive in the mail, a good procedure for massaging your forearms without a roller can be found here: Here's The Rub by Amy Ratto. The Stick works much better for me, though, and it's more convenient. An example of how to use it to massage your forearm can be found at thestick.net.

You might be thinking, "My muscles don't hurt! My ELBOWS hurt!" Well, one theory is that the pain in your elbow might just be referred pain from your muscles. Or potentially tiny, difficult to reach muscle knots (some call them trigger points) are causing tension to build up and pull on your elbows continuously, even when you're asleep. So massage is worth a try. To relieve the tension best, I think you should massage the entire muscle, not just the part that hurts.

Obviously, your case may be different than mine. To compare details, the longer narrative is below.

My Longer Story: Does any of this sound like you?
I used to climb a lot while I was in high school and throughout my college years, but I stopped for the last 10 years. A few months ago I started bouldering about once every 3 days at a new gym near my house, but I wasn't in climbing shape and I ramped up my climbing a little too quickly, I think. After a month of pulling hard on plastic holds, my elbows started aching whenever I finished climbing for the night, my right elbow being worse than my left. I'm right handed so I guess there's a correlation. The elbow pain was mostly on the insides of the elbows and radiated throughout my forearm. Some would call this a case of climber's elbow, or medial epicondylitis.

I continued trying to climb every 3 nights or so hoping that I would get through it, but as soon as I would start a climbing session, an intense burning sensation radiated from my elbows into my forearms and up into my upper arms. Next, driving home became difficult as I had to turn the steering wheel gingerly and operate the stick shift without gripping it with my fingers. My bicep tendons (both arms) on the inside, lower part of my biceps became very sore, too. Pressing on certain bicep tendons near my elbow with my thumbs was incredibly painful.

I decided to take a week off to heal, but strangely it only got worse. One week off turned into two, then three, with no improvement. The lack of improvement scared me. Using the keyboard and mouse at work bothered my right arm. Using the stick shift in my truck continued to be painful. And I would wake up with aching elbows and tension in my forearms, mostly my right, but sometimes the left, too. I spent hours on end searching the interwebs for a solution. I was at my wit's end!

I ordered The Stick from Amazon, along with a book on trigger points. While waiting for them to arrive, I started doing nightly massages of my forearms. It took about 4 days of these massages to start feeling like I was improving. It definitely helped some.

I bought a 10 lb dumbell and started doing exercises to strengthen the weaker opposing muscles in my elbows. The idea is that as your climbing muscles get strong, they pull on your elbow more than the other weaker muscles that don't get exercised and the elbow gets all out of whack. I believe this is true and strengthening exercises will probably help. I followed a procedure found at Dr. Julian Saunders' site. I stopped after only two weeks, though, probably out of laziness and because by then "The Stick" had arrived and I felt like it was working wonders already.

I started climbing again after taking 5 or 6 weeks off in total (1 week after getting The Stick). At first, my forearm and elbow pain wasn't completely gone, but surprisingly, climbing seemed to make my elbows hurt less. As I warmed up, my forearms were very tight so I stretched them out and it felt better. Over the next week or so, the improvement in my elbows accelerated, but my lower bicep tendons started aching again. But after 1 or 2 weeks of daily massages with the stick, my bicep tendon pain was pretty much gone, my elbows were pain free, and I was back climbing at the level I was at before it all started.

Now, if I forget to use the stick for a day or two, my elbows will start to bug me a little, but not bad. I climbed tonight and I'm feeling great. The only things holding me back now are my fingers. But that's a different story.

If you have any questions about all this, please let me know. Good luck!]]> Hawaii_Climber ElbowsThu, 23 Feb 2012 12:34:29 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1076,1076#msg-1076 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1076,1076#msg-1076
I climbed infrequently over the next few months, but the finger continued to bother me--just not very much. About two months ago the main started to spread down my forearm. At first it was only while doing strenuous activity like gripping a bar to do pull ups. When I started school again a few weeks ago the pain got worse rapidly, and for the past 2 weeks it has hurt even to type. My ring finger hurts only a little bit now, but when I use it my forearm from my wrist all the way to the inside of my elbow feels really irritated. . In an attempt to let it heal I no longer use my right hand unless absolutely necessary, and I am icing, using nsaids, and doing the exercises indicated for golfers elbow. Also, I am not climbing at all, nor have I been in the past two months.

I have tried searching old posts, but I am still having a hard time knowing if I have golfer's elbow, flexor unit strain, pulley tendon strain, or all three. The pain in my finger has always been somewhat minimal with no swelling or tenderness to the touch. The pain in my forearm and elbow, however, is now interfering significantly with daily activities.

Any help appreciated,

Caleb]]> cjohnson2 FingersFri, 24 Feb 2012 03:53:11 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1075,1075#msg-1075 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1075,1075#msg-1075
About six weeks ago I noticed that I had some pain at the base of my left middle finger along the side of it that runs against my ring finger. At the time I had been climbing three or four days a week and had definitely been crimping more than usual. After some time with google I decided that I had probably injured a tendon pulley, although there was never any swelling and the finger only hurt when I pressed on it. There was no pain associated with climbing or decrease in range of motion. Really it was just that the pain from pressure was serious enough that when it didn't subside after several weeks I became concerned. After much deliberation I took ten days off from climbing. The pain stayed about the same and during that time I also noticed that if I press hard on the middle knuckle of the same finger there is another distinct pain on the edge near my ring finger. I'm having a hard time justifying the cost of an MRI. Any ideas about what this is or how to proceed?


Brandon]]> bsaimo FingersFri, 24 Feb 2012 03:55:16 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?1,1074,1074#msg-1074 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?1,1074,1074#msg-1074
Everyone tells me different, and sometimes conflicting things to do. I'm hoping that if I can figure out what exactly the problem is, then I'll know what to focus on for prevention. Right now I pretty much just ice, take ibuprofen, and rest for about a week. Looking at this site, its difficult to tell which symptoms I match. I feel pain on the outside of the elbow, and the inside to a lesser extent. Both elbows hurt, but the left more than the right. Squeezing an object doesn't really cause pain, but pushing the palms of my hands together does.

I appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks,
Paul]]> paul ElbowsSat, 31 Mar 2012 23:27:35 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,1072,1072#msg-1072 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,1072,1072#msg-1072
I am french and i am currently living in USA. I was still in France 4 months ago and felt pain in my shoulder after some climbing sessions.
After many tests, radio, echographie, then an arthroscope, i was diagnosed a labral tear : a Slap II or III, and a Bankart lesion.
Problem is that i was leaving three days after that to work one year in USA, so i was told to do shoulder work out to muscle the external and internal rotators, and the scapula stabilizers. I am doing the exercises almost one day out of 2, but i still feel some pain on the shoulder. I am working on a computer all the day and my position may not help.
I does not dare to try an easy climbing session. From what i know, only the surgery can fully heal that. Does the work out is useful in my case ?
I have a contract for one year in US and a french health insurance. This insurance would just accept to pay surgeries which are urgent and that must be done. Can my case be considered as urgent ?
What should i do to be able to climb again ?
Thanks

Thomas]]> Coolbord ShouldersFri, 24 Feb 2012 04:01:28 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?1,1065,1065#msg-1065 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?1,1065,1065#msg-1065
First I want to congratulate the creators of this website. This is exactly what I needed (I'm quite new to climbing).

I posting this here because the Elbow part of the main website is down and I'm not sure regarding the potential problem that I might have.

The description of my symptoms:
- I start to climb (even after warming up) and everything seems to be okay. As I continue to climb a feeling of tiredness and/or heaviness in my right (I'm right handed) arm (especially the upper part) starts to appear. My reaction is to pause a little longer, stretch it a little bit, shake it, and here I go again. The problem is that as I continue the feeling gets worse till a point where it hurts being extremely uncomfortable (I would say slight pain). The pain is more salient when I have to push myself against the wall in a way that I squeeze my bicep (my hand gets closer to the shoulder). I also have some significant discomfort

I'm not US and I have student health insurance but I don't know exactly how the health system works so I basically try not to go to the hospital - in the health services of the university they have no idea what this is... So my only option was the internet.

What I think this is:
- The first impression seems to be medial epicondylitis, however for what I've research online, for such cases the pain starts in the elbow and goes down towards the hand (includes some numbness and so on - I don't have that).
- My case is the opposite. My pain (discomfort) starts in the elbow but goes up till the middle of the inner part of the arm, somewhere in between the bicep and tricep. It seems to me that is related with the ulnar nerve (this might already be some kind of rationalization but my right arm ulnar nerve is much more salient than the left arm ulnar never - when placing my upper arm parallel to the ground and the lower arm 45º up, palms up, I can follow the ulnar nerve from the shoulder to the elbow in my right harm but I cannot do that in my left arm). Lately I've been thinking that I might had some decompensation between my bicep and tricep (the pronation and supination thing - I'm not from the medical/physical fields) but I'm kind of lost. I also thought it could be something like lower bicep tendinitis but bicep tendinitis usually gives pain in the shoulder and I do not have that.

Concluding remarks: I have done some heavy online search. I've learned a lot about muscles, tendons, medical terms and so on but I have no idea what my problem is, and more importantly, how to fix it. Any idea please?

Thank you very much.]]> pedromp ElbowsFri, 03 Feb 2012 21:46:28 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,1056,1056#msg-1056 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,1056,1056#msg-1056
I climbed at the weekend for about 45 minutes and whilst on the wall i had a shooting pain up my arm. I continued and it went away. I woke up the morning after and my entire tricep is bruised right down to my elbow.

I havent tried to climb again and i am not in any pain when i flex my arm. The only time it hurts is if i press on to the bruise.

Are the 2 related or am i worrying about nothing???

Thanks

John]]> johnpenn81 What else bothers you?Fri, 27 Jan 2012 21:10:29 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,1055,1055#msg-1055 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,1055,1055#msg-1055
I climbed three times the other week, which is more than I usually do. I always warm up, but at the end of the week I noticed that my shoulder felt very tired and that it hurt to lift my arm over my head. I let it rest over a week with no change. I didn't ice it ( after reading this site I think I 'll start).

The specifics of my pain are:

It doesn't hurt if I keep my arm straight and raise it above my head, in fact I can do a full circle.
It doesn't hurt if I keep my arm straight and raise it out to the side (like jumping jacks)
It doesn't hurt to do push-ups
But it does hurt if I bend my elbow and raise it. It hurts quite a bit when I get to 90 degrees. I guess this would be the position you're in when
down on a hold.

So is it rotator cuff?

thanks]]> caitrin ShouldersTue, 14 Feb 2012 18:34:37 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1054,1054#msg-1054 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1054,1054#msg-1054http://i.imgur.com/RJZ1W.jpg and http://i.imgur.com/XIzlK.jpg . This white spots around my joint are calcifications. Currently I am waiting for the ultrasound diagnosis on 27th, cause my doctor wants to see the condition of tendons. Of course no climbing for me until he sees what is the exact problem. My finger is still hard to move (can't clench my fist as my ring finger only goes half way). Has anyone ever had some similar experiences? (Never heard of calcification from any climber before..)]]> bilivana FingersSun, 15 Jan 2012 10:44:03 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1053,1053#msg-1053 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1053,1053#msg-1053
I've developed a small bump right above my A3, where I'd imagine the C2 lies. The bump isn't visibles, but you can feel it when you press on my finger.

My hand feels great if I'm typing, extending, or closing my finger. I can even open hand crimps if I'm not putting my full weight on them. The pain comes in with full crimping, squeezing hard, putting full weight an open hand, or putting pressure on the bump (even on jugs!). The pain is localized to the bump, and to a lesser degree, the A4 area. The pain is dull, and is only moderate . . . it feels more like my body is screaming "DON'T DO WHAT YOU'RE DOING OR ELSE DIRE CONSEQUENCES!!!"

I'm not sure what's up . . . I've had a pulley injury before (same finger), but this just doesn't feel the same. I've got an appointment with a sports medicine doc in about a week . . but would really love to hear a climber's thoughts on what's going on. =/

Thanks to all,
Kyle

PS climbing on hiatus until I get a diagnosis from the sports doc. ='(]]> kybishop FingersFri, 27 Jan 2012 21:02:42 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1052,1052#msg-1052 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1052,1052#msg-1052
I have chronic pain in the joint between my hand and my pinky finger, which, I think, is the joint between the 5th metacarpal and proximal phalanx. The joint is swollen - noticeably larger than the same joint on my left hand - and tender to the touch.

Climbing and fingerboard training does not bring on pain immediately, but it is worse after I have been doing a lot of training. It's also worse after I've been doing a lot of typing and / or using my touchscreen phone.

Do you have any suggestions for how I can treat this? Due to an injury that was diagnosed as a slipped disc in my neck, I recently stopped climbing and doing all upper body training for around 2 months, and although this slightly improved the hand / finger joint pain, it never completely disappeared and is painful again now that my neck has healed and I am slowly starting to climb and train again.

I am 27, have been climbing for just over two years and am generally pretty fit as I do a range of other sports including mountain biking, running and surfing.

Thanks in advance for your help.

EDIT: I first noticed the joint being swollen and slightly painful last summer - around august I think.]]> carlin FingersFri, 27 Jan 2012 21:17:18 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,1051,1051#msg-1051 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,1051,1051#msg-1051
Next day I have no swelling, but a constant ache-y feeling and there is most definitely a sore spot right behind where I think the fibula attaches to the knee. Again... tendon zone. I definitely do not want to put any abnormal weight (side to side or rotation) on the knee.

If you have any info on diagnosis or treatment, that would be great. Thanks!

B]]> bdowney What else bothers you?Fri, 27 Jan 2012 21:32:56 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1044,1044#msg-1044 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1044,1044#msg-1044The PIP joint on my ring finger of my left hand.
About 5 years ago i sustained a Grade 2 tear of my A2 pulley, since this time, i have had pain around the collateral ligaments of the PIP joint (The pulley is fully healed). This causes little problem during everyday life, however the area is pressure sensitive and i have a fair amount of reduction in Flexion of that joint. As i try to passively flex the joint, it feels as if the joint is about to seperate.
When i climb, it causes little affect in my ability and the pain is constant but not incapacitating. Post climbing session, my joint tends to swell and is more sensitive to pressure. It is especially sore in the morning, after an evenings session. The whole area is sore to flex. The main pain feel as if it at the lateral, distal portion of the proximal phalanx.

Any ideas and help is gratefully recieved. i have tried most therapies, icing, rest(6 months off), stretching and strengthing of the muscles, taping and immobilisation, None have solved the issue.

Wiggy]]> wiggy FingersTue, 03 Jan 2012 03:51:40 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1035,1035#msg-1035 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1035,1035#msg-1035
Searched the forum topics and such - do not see a similar issue, though some pics look alot like my hands.

Have been a higher end climber (13+) for 15 or so yrs - and during this time have had many of the injuries listed on this BB. About 8 yrs ago had a capsule issue middle joint, middle finger that resulted in a ganglion/cyst that never really went away. Both hands have arthritic looking middle fingers, but has not resulted in much pain, or loss in power, but definitely ROM (can't straighten just like Dai Koyamada).

Got shoulder surgery a few months back - decided to keep at least one hand active after 3 mths inactivity by doing one-armed openhand deadhangs on a very tough fingerboard (w very little warmup) - BAD IDEA. After a couple sessions, felt a sharp pain on top of the middle finger knuckle, followed by inflammation on top of the joint and stiffness. Hurts to climb easy stuff since then - even jugs cause a pain in the same place (top of middle knuckle just a few mm distal to joint).

Over a month in - still hurts in same place when climbing - despite icing and rest.

I mention the first injury as I suspect they are related but not 100%. Reading other posts - seems like a stress fracture, but the pain is very localized to a small area a couple mm in diameter (though the whole joint swells when I push it).

Any thoughts or advice based on the symptoms above? Many thx,]]> Marcus FingersTue, 10 Jan 2012 04:04:20 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,1012,1012#msg-1012 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,1012,1012#msg-1012I'm considering to purchase The ultimate guide to rotator cuff training by Brian Schiff. [www.rotatorcufftraining.com] Has anyone got any experience with this particular training. Does it deliver the results it promises to deliver? I've been having problems with my right shoulder for the last 10 years. According to MRI I've got a moderate tendinopathy without raptures to the supraspinatus and infrspinatus and a bone spur on tuberculus greater . I've seen two orthopedists (unfortunately not specialized in shoulders) but their only advice was to stop climbing. I don't want to accept that. I experience dull pain sometimes during the day and especially in the morning when I wake up. The shoulder is also sensitive to cold. I can no longer wear sleeveless T-shirts.
I really hope to find a way to fix this so I can carry on climbing.

Will be grateful for any information on this.

Lubos]]> lubos ShouldersThu, 15 Dec 2011 20:52:21 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?1,1010,1010#msg-1010 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?1,1010,1010#msg-1010
I have climbed twice since I noticed the strain and pain while flexing my arm, and the pain is somewhat more persistent now. It is extremely painful to the touch, just above the main bone on the outside of my elbow. I also have some mild strain/pain in my bicep on the inside of my elbow when I flex my arm.

If I flex my elbow and simply press down with my finger (i.e. sitting at my desk, press my fingers flat with some force onto my desk) I experience severe pain/soreness in my elbow. It feels "deep", like a bad bruise.

Any idea what this could be? Should I just power through it, or stop climbing for a while? Should I see a doctor?

Thank you!
Alex]]> AJo ElbowsFri, 09 Dec 2011 04:45:23 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1009,1009#msg-1009 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1009,1009#msg-1009Thanks, Ryan]]> Ryan94 FingersSun, 18 Dec 2011 04:55:45 +0000