Welcome to the Climbing Injuries Forumshttp://climbinginjuries.com/forums/index.phpTue, 07 Sep 2010 21:48:12 -0500 Phorum 5.2.9a http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,595,595#msg-595 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,595,595#msg-595
If my pinky is extended straight and I pull with my ring finger, theres no noticeable pain, but if i keep my pinky bent and pull with my ring finger, I get a intense pain about 1 cm from the base of my ring finger.

I think its a tendon avulsion? Anyone have any other ideas as to what it may be and any sort of home treatment?]]> unkid4n FingersTue, 07 Sep 2010 17:04:35 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,594,594#msg-594 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,594,594#msg-594Hope to hear from you. Thanks!]]> wvkid What else bothers you?Tue, 07 Sep 2010 13:21:03 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,592,592#msg-592 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,592,592#msg-592
Today while bouldering, I went for an open handed crimp and heard a pop inside my left forearm (non dominant hand/arm) about a quarter of the way up from my hand to elbow. A sharp pain shot up through my left ring finger.

I can close my ring finger, but it definitely feels week through my hand. I immediately iced it when I got I got home and plan on continuing ice baths every other few hours for 15 min. each. Can someone please share what they might think I did? Strained a tendon or ligament? This is my first "serious" injury.

I'm trying to decide what "Grade" finger injury listed on this website..seems like perhaps a Grade 1 or 2 or somewhere in between. Help! Thank you!]]> lovetoboulder FingersSun, 05 Sep 2010 20:14:52 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,591,591#msg-591 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,591,591#msg-591 Ssully ShouldersThu, 02 Sep 2010 16:27:12 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,589,589#msg-589 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,589,589#msg-589
I was climbing and heard a pop and immediately stopped. Pain was radiating through my middle finger into my hand.

The finger was still mobile with no pain associated with flexion.

I iced it and took aleve (though there was no visible swelling).

The next morning i woke up and there was no constant pain but when i tried to move my finger there was sharp pain around the a2 pulley area and the top of the middle digit of my finger (below the knuckle by the fingernail). I can not bend my finger in to make a fist.

I have already been to a hand specialist and had an xray taken and an mri done this morning. I am waiting until friday for the results of my mri.

My question is that i have been looking for symptoms of a2 pulley ruptures and have not seen an inability to move the finger or sharp pain associated only with flexion. I can passively (move my finger with my other hand) move my finger without pain.

Any ideas what may be going on and what i should be prepared for?]]> dac FingersSun, 29 Aug 2010 22:56:53 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,583,583#msg-583 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,583,583#msg-583 stro1223 FingersFri, 13 Aug 2010 22:51:53 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,579,579#msg-579 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,579,579#msg-579
So I have a few different issues with my right hands middle finger that I would like to receive some info on.

The first issue has gone relatively untreated/ignored due to it not bothering me terribly. Whenever I extend my middle knuckle into a crimp position there is movement on one side of my knuckle (opposite palm side) and my finger is restricted from fully crimping properly and feels completely 'locked up'. I have been able to climb without it bothering me due to mostly using open grip. If I press firmly on both sides of my knuckle there is pain though, however.

It is hard for me to have a good understanding of what this issue is due to other injuries that have recently been my focus on the same finger.

My A3/PIP area has been swollen for a week due to a climb that involved a powerful three finger pinch and some crimpy moves. Also my A4 was painful when pressed for a few days, but has since improved significantly due to 1 day of Ibuprofen/icing/contrast baths this week.

I plan on seeking medical attention, but don't know where to start. (x-rays/mri/etc?)

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.]]> unsure FingersTue, 10 Aug 2010 22:33:28 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,562,562#msg-562 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,562,562#msg-562
I do not know when I was injured or how (pretty sure it was climbing) but on my middle finger along the proximal phalanx and just below the middle phalanges I experience pain whenever I climb. I have full range of motion in the finger but when I apply pressure to the inside of the finger in the area I described I feel a slight raise underneath the skin that is not there when i feel my other finger. It only hurts when I either apply pressure to the inner side of the finger or when I climb. I've taken almost 2 months off and have tried climbing at times during those months, but whenever I do the finger swells up and I feel more pain.

Any help as to what I may have done or how long this may take to heal would be appreciated as I refuse to go to a doctor, because I know they will say there is no treatment.]]> gswock FingersThu, 12 Aug 2010 13:51:04 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,559,559#msg-559 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,559,559#msg-559I am part owner of a vitamin supplement company whose primary product was developed for rock climbers. We've been having trouble reaching our audience and as injured climbers I was wondering if I could get some feedback on the site? Just your honest opinions and gut reactions to what you see on the site. (VitaRack)

Let me be clear: I am only looking for your opinions and feedback. Please do not purchase our product or feel under any obligation to do so. You are rock climbers and I would just like to know what you think.

Thank you in advance,
Aaron]]> tothesummit What else bothers you?Sun, 08 Aug 2010 16:19:56 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,556,556#msg-556 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,556,556#msg-556
I was climbing on an overhung wall yesterday, and was doing a move off an under cling, when I felt something give in my ring finger, accompanied by a 'cracking' sound. I stopped climbing immediately.

Here are my symptoms:

- Mild pain initially, and continued mild soreness around the base of my ring finger today.
- Base of ring finger hurts if pressed.
- Any force against the ring finger (i.e. trying to push the finger open or grip anything) causes considerable pain.
- However, I do have the full range of motion in the finger (if no force is applied)
- Very little visible swelling or bruising.

Any advice on what I might have done, and how severe the injury is likely to be, would be really appreciated!

Should I be seeing a physio?

Thanks

Rachel]]> Rachel FingersSun, 01 Aug 2010 21:01:15 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,555,555#msg-555 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,555,555#msg-555
After a recent trip to the gym I ended up with some pain on the outside of my second knuckle. I feel the injury when making a fist but while climbing or hanging from a hangboard I do not notice any pain, the pain then later subsides after any form of activity. I also notice pain while massaging the outside of the knuckle. I was just wondering what kind of injury this is considering I have no pain while climbing.

Thanks]]> Gerberman FingersWed, 04 Aug 2010 23:00:12 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,554,554#msg-554 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,554,554#msg-554
I don't want to do anything permanent from what I think was initially a minor injury but at the same time I don't want to be off climbing if there is nothing wrong. It isn't clear to me if I am going back too soon or the pain is just from scar tissue. Any diagnosis/advice appreciated.]]> robbie_scott FingersWed, 04 Aug 2010 22:57:49 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,552,552#msg-552 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,552,552#msg-552
I've been reading posts on this site for a while now - great resource!

While gym-climbing i was standing on a small hold with my left foot. My right foot was heel hooking around the corner of an arch. My right hand was on a small left-facing edge slightly to the right of my body's centre (where my left foot is) and at about chest height. The move is to then reach your left hand way out to the left and back (behind you a little) to grab a large ledge-ish hold. I grabbed that ledge. My feet were far to the right and the majority of my bodies weight was being supported by the fingertips of my fully outstretched left arm (which is now at about a 100-degree angle from my torsoe). I did this statically. While in this position, and while trying to match hands on that ledge, I felt pain in my mid-bicep. Later on the same climb i tried to shake out my shoulder (by making a windmill-like motion with my left arm and it was extremely stiff). Now, a few days later, my mid-bicep is less sore, my left pec and left upper back/shoulder are very sore and so too is the area up and inside my left arm-pit (upper bicep, i reckon).

I had/have some shoulder impingement and do ratator cuff-strengthening exercises regularily.

Any idea what i may have done? I’m sure the answer is rest but I’m supposed to be going on a canoe trip in about a week and that will likely work those muscles pretty hard.

Thanks for any help you may be able to provide. It’s much appreciated.

Cheers,
Ari]]> ari ShouldersTue, 10 Aug 2010 22:23:57 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,549,549#msg-549 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,549,549#msg-549
I was at the wall yesterday and whilst crimping heard a fairly loud pop/snap coming from my left ring finger. Stopped climbing immediately and grabbed an ice pack. Talking to a couple of people was highly suspicious of my A2 or C3 circumfrencial ligaments. After going home, I taped it up to restrict any movement and took ibruprofen (NSAI). It hasn't been particularily painful, more of a dull ache.

I had an x-ray (no small chips off bone) at A&E this morning and doctor manipulated finger without any real pain, suggested not climbing for a week .

But finger still feels achey and bit tender, trying a 'proper' crimp position on my desk feels a little sore and not pushing hard.

Should I just ignore it, rest up till it feels good and maybe try taping when starting back in a few weeks or get it properly checked out?

Any advice welcome....]]> iain_pi FingersWed, 04 Aug 2010 22:51:34 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,548,548#msg-548 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,548,548#msg-548This is a fairly lengthy story I'm afraid. But it started approximately one year ago, climbing a particularly strenuous route, i felt a sharp pain in my shoulder on a gaston. I came down and stopped climbing. For a week after that my shoulder seemed to drop out of the socket when i was doing nothing in particular, e.g carrying light shopping. I went to the doctor in my home town, who referred me to the hospital physiotherapist, by this time, my shoulder had stopped falling out of place, but was sensitive to overhead pulling motions (as if on a gaston) and would pop severely out of place when i would reenact the motion. The lovely doctor told me that it was nothing to worry about, my shoulder blade is just catching on my ribs causing a jerking motion, this sounded a bit stupid, and i should have refuted what he said, but i didn't want to make a fuss, and when i questioned him about it, it seemed that he was set on that being the problem. SO, changed my GP and got a second opinion from another doctor, who gave a much more reasonable explanation, saying that it looked like a partial dislocation or subluxation? i can't remember if an x-ray was done, but i was referred to the physiotherapist at different hospital, who told me that the GP was probably right and referred me to the hospital to get an ultrasound done. In the mean time my shoulder did feel okay to climb on, as long as i avoided the use of gastons, so i climbed as usual, as long as it didn't strain my shoulder. Moving my arm from the gaston position sometimes felt as if it locked and as if it were about to pop, so i refrained from doing this. The time came for the ultrasound, and he examined my shoulder, and i saw my arm drop downwards out of my shoulder then going back in its place again. Then another appointment was booked to talk about my ultra sound results with the orthopaedics who made me move my arm around a bit, and concluded that there may be damage to the cartillage in the joint between my arm and my shoudler, to clarify this sent to get an MRI, the MRI showed that there was no damage to the cartillage but there was an increase in fluid towards the top that particular joint (im sorry i don't know its name) maybe the glenohumeral joint? And he pressed my shoulder and asked me if it hurt, i said no. He then explained that human's have a skeletal structure different to monkeys which is not designed for excess overhead/overarm activities, humans have a small bridge shaped bone on the top of the shoulder which wears away due to age, but activities such as climbing or swimming can wear it down more quickly and that is what has happened to me. He said it can occur from anyone from the age of 21 upwards. But there was nothing i can do about it. And that was that.
I'm 21 and have been frequently climbing for one year and a half, i've just found your site which is quite incredible, thanks for the resource! I've read your section of shoulder injuries and it sounds like i have a Slap tear? and i was wondering is there anything that can still be done to help my shoulder one year after injury, although it doesn't pop as severely as it once did, it still pops and locks fairly frequently. I don't experience pain. Thank you so much for your time reading this, it is a bit lengthy, but i've been referred everywhere to try and fix this problem, to be told it's unfixable!!!! I would like a 3rd opinion :)
If what i have written isn't so clear in places, please ask me to expand on what i have said.
Thanks infinately,
Oli]]> Healthy Finger ShouldersWed, 04 Aug 2010 23:28:37 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,547,547#msg-547 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,547,547#msg-547I am experiencing pain on palpation and on flexion of my fingers, I think my ring finger. The pain is in my palm, just above the middle, below the ring and middle fingers of my right hand. I can't feel any noticeable swelling/lumps. I climb at high level so my tendons are usually strong, and this is new to me. I'm 20.]]> crazyclimber FingersWed, 04 Aug 2010 22:50:20 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,546,546#msg-546 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,546,546#msg-546I noticed a feeling of instant swelling in my left ring finger when i was climbing in feb/march time. I am still experiencing pain in my middle knuckle, especially when i push gently underneath and upwards on the left side of it, when looking at the hand palm down, the same knuckle hurts when i extend my finger and becomes more sensitive to touch if I squeeze it as i do so, it is also sensitive and especially painful to pressure exerted on the side of the finger, particularly pressure from the outer side pushing inwards toward the thumb. I am unable to fully curl my finger fully and as i get closer to the palm of my hand it grows more painful, over the months and months of no climbing my finger has not seemed to get noticeably better, i might have climbed 2 - 3 times, but only on the biggest hand jugs i could find, never for very long, and with tape. I have been to the doctor, he gave me diclofenac and it took that until i ran out of tablets, then i was given more. It did reduce the swelling and i was able to curl my finger more, but still not completely. I have stopped taking it now because i've been taking it for an extended amount of time and it has started to make me feel uncomfortable. I will return to the dosage possibly in a few weeks if needs be. I had an x-ray the other week done on my finger, and the results said everything was fine structurally. I sick of having a dodgy finger, and i've started to think it's never going to get better. I've read the information on injuries, and it sounds like a Grade 2 pulley injury to me? but it also sounds like a collateral ligament injury? Any help diagnosing will be well recieved.
Thanks from a broken fingered friend.
xx]]> Healthy Finger FingersSun, 18 Jul 2010 11:17:03 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,543,543#msg-543 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,543,543#msg-543
2 days ago, I went swimming and the next day was the first time I woke up without stiffness. Currently it is much better (pain is relatively mind) but I still feel pain while bending my fingers and exerting force to push down on something. The pain is only in the ring finger now. I have no climbed for over a week. Any guess what it can be and when I can go back and climb?]]> positivead85 FingersWed, 04 Aug 2010 23:21:59 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,542,542#msg-542 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,542,542#msg-542
Right now I feel pain whenever I close my hand or stretch my fingers (I feel some pain as well at the upper end of my palm next to the injured fingers when I close my hand).

I have 2 questions:

1. Is this a type II or III pulley injury?
2. Can I do any kind of excercise which require my hand (push-ups, pull-ups, hand-stands, etc. [gymnastics oriented excercises])?

Thank you]]> Andres FingersWed, 04 Aug 2010 22:49:35 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,539,539#msg-539 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,539,539#msg-539i hate having to rest normally but i really dont want to this time because i have a competition in two days.
basically does anyone know if i can climb in two days without causing myself permanent and serious injury?
i dont mind it hurting so long as im not really damaging myself, and i really wanna go to this comp.

please could someone (ideally a doctor who is also a climber) reply asap!
louis :)]]> louisparkinson ShouldersWed, 04 Aug 2010 23:32:02 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,538,538#msg-538 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,538,538#msg-538
About one month ago I woke up with an intense and sharp pain in the middle of my wrist (palm side). RICE helped as well as some anti inflamitories (NSAID). I was not climbing the previous day and have no clue how this occured. Over the next month, I was able to go climbing a few times, including bouldering, without any pain during the climbing. Recenty, however, I have begun to experience pain in my wrist at random points during the day. I attribute the start of this pain to two hard bouldering sessions that were only one day apart. The pain is dull but deep and occurs in the same place as before, right in the middle of my wrist, just below the palm at any point during the day, especially after a long night of sleep. At other times, it occurs at random points around my wrist, such as where the thum joins it. I tried to climb once or twice more after the onset of this 'chronic' type of pain and there was no pain immediately in that area. However, when I pulled on the hold I notice acute pain in the pronator quadratus area, primarily along the bony part of the forearm, right about where my thumb joins the forearm. Whenever I stretch my hand black, as if I was warming up for climbing, I can feel tightness and the slightest pain in the wrist. Sorry for the long explanation but I am not sure what to do. I have no clue what happened but I am sure it is climbing related. My family doctor has not been able to diagnose and it will take months before I can see a specialist. Has anyone experienced something similar or knows what may be going on. Please help. Thank you.]]> ozren What else bothers you?Wed, 04 Aug 2010 23:35:23 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,537,537#msg-537 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,537,537#msg-537Any help to help me diagnose it would be greatly appreciated.

doesn't hurt when extending. But hurts when i stretch it back extended - pain coming from top knuckle i think
Slight pain in top knuckle (i think) when I clench my fist
Pressing from underneath moving up from the base it starts to hurt just the other side of my middle knuckle - feels like its the bone thats hurting
Hurts also pressing underneath and around my top knuckle
Pressing form the sides it hurts quite a bit pressing between my middle knuckle and my top knuckle (by my finger tip) on the left side of the finger. Does not hurt at all on the right side.

There is no swelling. Which made me think after reading on here that it is unlikely to be a stress fracture.
I thought maybe collateral ligament injury but there is no pain or at least only mild pain pressing the side of the middle knuckle. So im guessing i have damaged a couple of pulleys, but any help would be appreciated.

Thanks a lot,

Ben]]> Benthfc FingersWed, 04 Aug 2010 22:47:43 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?1,531,531#msg-531 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?1,531,531#msg-531i am left-handed and been pushing my grade a little (well, up until this nagging injury)

I'll list the symptoms/nags:

i) on the back of my left hand if I rub the skin gently around the area of index finger bone I feel a nerve-tingle which travels to my middle finger just past the first knuckle. There is also some numbness on the skin when feeling this. Sometimes a dull ache in base of wrist (back of hand)

ii) pain in my elbow between the cap and the funny bone mostly after climbing sustained routes

iii) irritation more than pain at the tendon inside of my bicep near my armpit.

I felt this first while competing at an indoor gym and rested for around a month after that.
After that, I have been climbing moderately (not overextending myself)

This seems to be recurring but flares up in different areas more than the whole lot at once.

any ideas or am I doomed? would really like to climb 5.13 before hanging up my boots.]]> eatmorepap ElbowsWed, 26 May 2010 15:17:40 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,528,528#msg-528 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,528,528#msg-528
On january the 10th I hurt my A2 pulley of my middle finger during bouldering. A couple of days later the pain was a lot better so I went climbing again. I had some pain during climbing but the next day when I woke up I couldn't bent my finger anymore. I had a lot of pressure pain on my A2 of my middle finger
I wenty to a dokter and hed advised met 6 to 8 weeks of rest. So I started resting and using ice, I rested for 3 months and then I went climbing again. Really easy routes with low intenisty for my fingers. The next day my fingers hurted again.
I went back to the dokter and he advised a cortison injection. I got the injection and another week of rest. Then I started climbing again and after one session of relly easy routes the pain was back
Do you have any advice?]]> brecht.porrez FingersTue, 01 Jun 2010 14:44:49 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,520,520#msg-520 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,520,520#msg-520
- Mike]]> ltj999 FingersTue, 01 Jun 2010 14:36:57 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,519,519#msg-519 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,519,519#msg-519
After a week's rest, I'm wondering if I should start again. There's no bruising left, and barely any swelling. I can open and close my hand without pain, though the finger feels sore if I hang from anything besides larger edges or slopers on my fingerboard.

So...was this a Grade III injury? Or just Grade II? And I'm wondering if I should wait 'til there's no real pain before I climb again.

Thanks!]]> bjanaszek FingersSun, 23 May 2010 20:42:43 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,516,516#msg-516 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,516,516#msg-516
In short, I climbed too much, pushed too hard and blew the flexor tendon in my forearm and palm—the one that controls movement of the very tip of the ring finger—while performing an open-hand crimp.

The injury felt like a mild electric shock and I knew immediately what it meant and stopped. A doctor ran a quick resistance test and determined that it wasn't a full rupture: probably a tear or sprain. No swelling or bruising resulted.

Three months rest and several weeks of physio later I was able to squeeze an apple-sized foam stress ball without feeling like my tendon would explode. I lifted light weights and gently stretched my fingers. Tried to hydrate. Freebased vitamin D.

During month four, I was traversing lightly once a week. When I felt any soreness I took a week off.

By the end of month five, I had worked up to climbing medium-grade problems (V4/V5) on plastic and felt my confidence in the tendon returning. There was no pain and climbing was fun again. I could traverse on small crimps, closed- and open-hand. I was bouldering three-hour sessions three times a week.

Then I threw an open hand to a small crimp and heard the tendon pop as my weight came down on the hold. Yeah, it was dumb.

This time I did an ultrasound scan which confirmed what I knew: I have a partial tear of the flexor tendon (profundus) in the palm of my hand. The scan was really cool: I could clearly see as I flexed my finger where the tendon was bulging slightly and some small dark patches at the site of injury.

Unfortunately, my hand surgeon specialist was less than helpful. She seemed unwilling or unable to speculate on what I might expect in terms of recovery. I understand that it's not her job to guess arbitrarily about prognosis but it irritated me that with her decades of seeing similar injuries and with the facts that I presented her in conjunction with the results of the ultrasound that she wouldn't even outline the parameters of what is possible.

My recovery strategy this time involves cross-training, regular hot compresses, quality sleep, healthy eating, increasing resistance, physio and trying to stay positive.

Has anyone torn a flexor tendon and lived to say they climbed well on small holds again?

Thanks for any feedback.]]> Hudson What else bothers you?Mon, 06 Sep 2010 08:38:29 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,506,506#msg-506 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,506,506#msg-506 thenguyenloc FingersWed, 05 May 2010 09:41:26 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,492,492#msg-492 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,492,492#msg-492
3 weeks ago i was climbing and i had my right arm extended and tried to pull and i heart a cracked on my right shoulder. After i came down from the rock it was not a particular pain. The next day i was start having pain when i was moving my hand up closing to the 90 degrees and i was feeling my bicept really pumped!!! My hand though has all the movements but it causes pain when it comes close to the shoulder. It also pains when i put my right hand on my right hip.

In the morning i feel my shoulder really stiff. I havent climbed since then, i had 1 week treatment of relaxing it and taking arcoxia pills and icing it. I dont feel any shoulder unstability. i also feel that is becoming weaker

The doctor and physio suspects that i may have tenonditis of the rotator cuff. i did 8 sessions of physiotherapy but it stills pains but it is improved though

What do you think it is? shall i start slowly slowly doing some exercses to empower my hand and shoulder?

I want to climb for long years and i dont want to damage my shoulder!!!

I just feel helpless after so much icing and physiotherapies that i really want to start doing exercises in order to prepare to go out on the rock again.!!

Please tell me your opinions.

Do you think my problem is more serious does they say??

Thanks guys!!

Tassos]]> tagathangelou ShouldersThu, 01 Apr 2010 15:36:01 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,491,491#msg-491 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,491,491#msg-491
I'm experiencing a short very sharp pain shooting up (either) forearm when I release a strong grip on a hold quickly, releasing in order to move to another hold is fine as long as I'm in control of the movement.

Its really the last three sessions (mon/fri/mon) in which this has become a fairly consistent problem. It flared up on a monday after a Fri/Sat of bouldering (bouldering is my normal climbing, 2+ years), I knew I hadn't recovered enough to go but still went.
I have experienced this problem before, but only intermittently enough not to have been particularly worried by it.

Ive come across quite a few reports of a similar problem on this site, but with no diagnosis given. Sounds like it could be anything from the onset of tendonitis or a tendon strain, muscle imbalance, repetitive strain injury, or just a bit of overuse.

Obviously I hope its overuse, its does seem to have coincided with a period of climbing when not fully recovered (my sessions are usually 4-5 hours with at least 1 hour of warming up - constant stretching throughout), but obviously the overuse could also have led to something more serious....

No pain away from the climbing gym, no pain when applying pressure to areas of the forearm (not that I know what I'm doing with that particularly), no pain with antagonistic exercises, no pain with stretching.

There is a kind of awareness that something doesn't feel right though, cycling for instance, putting pressure on the handlebars going up a hill and I'm just aware of something slightly out of the norm, just general niggles occasionally throughout the day, not pain as such but a general uncomfortableness, the feeling of the need to stretch the areas. Quite hard to explain, sorry.


I've tralled through a fair bit of information about climbing injuries I can't seem to find much of an answer for this one, despite the accounts of others on this problem.



I am extremely grateful for any help or experiences offered, thank you.


(male/21/climbing 2+ years - not been using NSAID's)]]> jamie00 What else bothers you?Tue, 11 May 2010 11:51:29 -0500