Welcome to the Climbing Injuries Forumshttp://climbinginjuries.com/forums/index.phpTue, 07 Sep 2010 21:47:39 -0500 Phorum 5.2.9a http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,595,595#msg-595 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,595,595#msg-595
If my pinky is extended straight and I pull with my ring finger, theres no noticeable pain, but if i keep my pinky bent and pull with my ring finger, I get a intense pain about 1 cm from the base of my ring finger.

I think its a tendon avulsion? Anyone have any other ideas as to what it may be and any sort of home treatment?]]> unkid4n FingersTue, 07 Sep 2010 17:04:35 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,594,594#msg-594 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,594,594#msg-594Hope to hear from you. Thanks!]]> wvkid What else bothers you?Tue, 07 Sep 2010 13:21:03 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,516,593#msg-593 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,516,593#msg-593[50 weeks since initial injury]

Two weeks ago I saw the hand surgeon specialist (the one who's also a regular route climber). After testing my hand and looking at my MRI (and the ultrasound I brought in), he said it would be a good idea to start climbing to strengthen the tendon. At this point the tear is no longer visible.

I guess after around six months the tendon starts to remodel itself (so there's less of a lump like you see in the picture above). He also confirmed that my armchair diagnosis above is accurate.

He cautioned strongly about climbing too hard and recommended climbing lightly for the next six months. So I'll do that and then reassess. Apparently, tendon tears can take years to fully heal — there's very little blood flow to that area. I've been applying a heat pack to my hand daily which he said was a good idea.

I did two light sessions at the gym, climbing a handful of only the easiest problems without issue, so I'm feeling optimistic.]]> Hudson What else bothers you?Mon, 06 Sep 2010 08:38:29 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,592,592#msg-592 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,592,592#msg-592
Today while bouldering, I went for an open handed crimp and heard a pop inside my left forearm (non dominant hand/arm) about a quarter of the way up from my hand to elbow. A sharp pain shot up through my left ring finger.

I can close my ring finger, but it definitely feels week through my hand. I immediately iced it when I got I got home and plan on continuing ice baths every other few hours for 15 min. each. Can someone please share what they might think I did? Strained a tendon or ligament? This is my first "serious" injury.

I'm trying to decide what "Grade" finger injury listed on this website..seems like perhaps a Grade 1 or 2 or somewhere in between. Help! Thank you!]]> lovetoboulder FingersSun, 05 Sep 2010 20:14:52 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,591,591#msg-591 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,591,591#msg-591 Ssully ShouldersThu, 02 Sep 2010 16:27:12 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,589,590#msg-590 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,589,590#msg-590
Let us know what they tell you.]]> aimeerose FingersSun, 29 Aug 2010 22:56:53 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,589,589#msg-589 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,589,589#msg-589
I was climbing and heard a pop and immediately stopped. Pain was radiating through my middle finger into my hand.

The finger was still mobile with no pain associated with flexion.

I iced it and took aleve (though there was no visible swelling).

The next morning i woke up and there was no constant pain but when i tried to move my finger there was sharp pain around the a2 pulley area and the top of the middle digit of my finger (below the knuckle by the fingernail). I can not bend my finger in to make a fist.

I have already been to a hand specialist and had an xray taken and an mri done this morning. I am waiting until friday for the results of my mri.

My question is that i have been looking for symptoms of a2 pulley ruptures and have not seen an inability to move the finger or sharp pain associated only with flexion. I can passively (move my finger with my other hand) move my finger without pain.

Any ideas what may be going on and what i should be prepared for?]]> dac FingersSat, 28 Aug 2010 14:24:58 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,516,588#msg-588 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,516,588#msg-588
Thanks for the reply. Sounds like your recovery is coming along well. That you think you'll be able to climb well says a lot.

I'm trying to give my tendon lots of time to heal. In day-to-day use it's felt completely normal for many weeks. Although every once in a while I feel a little tweak (could be my imagination).

I think some very light climbing might be beneficial at this stage but I'll wait to see what my climber hand surgeon thinks before pulling on plastic.

If anyone is interested to see what ultrasound and MRI hand scans look like, check out the pictures below.

Ultrasound: In person, the ultrasound was extremely interesting and informative since I could see the tendon moving in real time. But I find the still images they captured to be less helpful because I can't easily see what's going on. Next time I'll ask them to save some video.

MRI: I don't mean to complain and I may be missing something but the MRI images look kinda weak. We have this cutting edge machine that costs millions of dollars to operate (running 24/7, apparently) and it produces grainy, low res images that look like under construction GIFs from the 'webs, circa 1997. Of course, the scanner is probably that old too, so I shouldn't be surprised. Isn't there an app for that now?

Click the image to enlarge:

]]> Hudson What else bothers you?Fri, 20 Aug 2010 12:15:02 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,583,587#msg-587 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,583,587#msg-587 aimeerose FingersFri, 13 Aug 2010 22:51:53 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,381,586#msg-586 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,381,586#msg-586 aimeerose FingersFri, 13 Aug 2010 22:50:40 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,381,585#msg-585 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,381,585#msg-585since then it's been about 3 weeks, but i've been climbing when it felt kinda good but midclimb it starts feeling worse again.
any further advice than what's already on the thread or just rest and ice?
thanks guys]]> Artie18 FingersFri, 13 Aug 2010 19:57:41 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,562,584#msg-584 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,562,584#msg-584 gswock FingersThu, 12 Aug 2010 13:51:04 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,583,583#msg-583 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,583,583#msg-583 stro1223 FingersWed, 11 Aug 2010 15:34:47 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,579,582#msg-582 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,579,582#msg-582 aimeerose FingersTue, 10 Aug 2010 22:33:28 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,562,581#msg-581 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,562,581#msg-581 aimeerose FingersTue, 10 Aug 2010 22:26:30 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,552,580#msg-580 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,552,580#msg-580 aimeerose ShouldersTue, 10 Aug 2010 22:23:57 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,579,579#msg-579 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,579,579#msg-579
So I have a few different issues with my right hands middle finger that I would like to receive some info on.

The first issue has gone relatively untreated/ignored due to it not bothering me terribly. Whenever I extend my middle knuckle into a crimp position there is movement on one side of my knuckle (opposite palm side) and my finger is restricted from fully crimping properly and feels completely 'locked up'. I have been able to climb without it bothering me due to mostly using open grip. If I press firmly on both sides of my knuckle there is pain though, however.

It is hard for me to have a good understanding of what this issue is due to other injuries that have recently been my focus on the same finger.

My A3/PIP area has been swollen for a week due to a climb that involved a powerful three finger pinch and some crimpy moves. Also my A4 was painful when pressed for a few days, but has since improved significantly due to 1 day of Ibuprofen/icing/contrast baths this week.

I plan on seeking medical attention, but don't know where to start. (x-rays/mri/etc?)

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.]]> unsure FingersTue, 10 Aug 2010 04:52:19 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,559,578#msg-578 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,559,578#msg-578 tothesummit What else bothers you?Sun, 08 Aug 2010 16:19:56 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,562,577#msg-577 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,562,577#msg-577 gswock FingersSat, 07 Aug 2010 22:56:30 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,552,576#msg-576 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,552,576#msg-576
I went canoeing. It was awesome for 5 days and really painful for 1 day (the last day). My left arm/upper-back continue to hurt. There is no discernable lump in my bicep. I can't really use my left arm to lift things. It even hurts to cycle (lots of pot holes on Toronto's dilapidated roads). My pec, while still tender, feels a bit better. i'm icing everything down frequently and took some advil on the canoe trip.

My bicep and upper left back/shoulder area seemed to react well to the normal wear and tear (ha ha?) associated with canoeing/portaging. It did not react well to my wood chopping. The pain was pretty intense after a few good hacks and has persisted for the last 3 or so days. At times the pain is sharp, at other times (when resting) it's dull.

Thanks again for any feedback/advice - my aching body is in your debt.

Cheers
-A]]> ari ShouldersThu, 05 Aug 2010 00:05:39 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,559,575#msg-575 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,559,575#msg-575 aimeerose What else bothers you?Wed, 04 Aug 2010 23:39:45 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,538,574#msg-574 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,538,574#msg-574www.htcc.org]]]> aimeerose What else bothers you?Wed, 04 Aug 2010 23:35:23 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,539,573#msg-573 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,539,573#msg-573 aimeerose ShouldersWed, 04 Aug 2010 23:32:02 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,552,572#msg-572 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,552,572#msg-572 aimeerose ShouldersWed, 04 Aug 2010 23:31:02 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,548,571#msg-571 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,548,571#msg-571You have some serious instability in your shoulder and very likely a labral tear (aka SLAP lesion, also can be called a Bankart lesion depending on which part of the labrum). I'm not sure what you mean by it "pops" frequently- like out of place and then back in (subluxation) or just a pop noise? Locking is a definite sign of a labral tear. The only way to truly repair the labrum is by surgery. You can try strengthening the shoulder stabilizers and rotator cuff in order to increase your stability, but you will probably need surgery eventually. If the MRI was not done with contrast (an injection), you can not properly visualize the labrum.

Let me know if you have any more questions.]]> aimeerose ShouldersWed, 04 Aug 2010 23:28:37 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,543,570#msg-570 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,543,570#msg-570 aimeerose FingersWed, 04 Aug 2010 23:21:59 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,562,569#msg-569 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,562,569#msg-569
I'm not completely sure what part of your finger you are describing, but if you have a bump on the palm side of the finger you do need to be concerned about trigger finger (google it). If you have any catching of the finger when you try to extend it, then a doc can help.]]> aimeerose FingersWed, 04 Aug 2010 23:18:32 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,555,568#msg-568 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,555,568#msg-568 aimeerose FingersWed, 04 Aug 2010 23:00:12 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,554,567#msg-567 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,554,567#msg-567 aimeerose FingersWed, 04 Aug 2010 22:57:49 -0500 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,549,566#msg-566 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,549,566#msg-566 aimeerose FingersWed, 04 Aug 2010 22:51:34 -0500