Welcome to the Climbing Injuries Forumshttp://climbinginjuries.com/forums/index.phpThu, 17 May 2012 23:42:00 +0000 Phorum 5.2.16 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,1112,1112#msg-1112 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,1112,1112#msg-1112Ever since that day, the area hurts when I shake people's hands or do ceratin hand jams (sometimes thumbs down hurts more than thumbs up or vice versa). It doesn't bother me when sport climbing. Actually--hand shaking is the most painful!
Anybody had something like this before????]]> koby1978 What else bothers you?Thu, 17 May 2012 03:47:42 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1111,1111#msg-1111 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1111,1111#msg-1111
This doesn't seem to fit into the normal set of symptoms I see here.

6-7 months ago, when both those joints were especially sore, and I gym-climbed anyway, I suddenly realised I had overdone it and left the gym with my right finger quickly becoming immobile. Actually, every joint was fine except the last one on that middle finger, which I could no longer bend and which the doctor/ hand surgeon eventually splinted up (really, this seems to have been useless and misguided) for a week. After a month, it was fine again, except that the top of that joint and the top of its matching finger on the other hand have been sore ever since.

The thing is, climbing seems to have a fairly weak effect on it. I think they're worse after training, but they don't get much better if I take some time off, and they don't tend to hurt much worse when climbing.
Except that having that knuckle sore can get in the way of happy finger-locks.

I don't tend to climb more than 3 days per week (when not on a road trip / holiday), and I've been climbing (at an intermediate level) for 20 years.

Anyone out there know what I'm talking about?

Many thanks!
Chris]]> cpbl FingersWed, 16 May 2012 17:07:05 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1110,1110#msg-1110 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1110,1110#msg-1110
For the past 5 weeks I've climbed 2 times well below my level. I've done the contrast baths, light massaging, stretching and avoided all weight room exercises that engage a tight grip with the injured finger. Upon pinching the middle part of the my finger, I still feel the same amount of pain as I felt before. Its a little tight as well. The tip of my finger cannot easily touch my palm, where as my left ring finger has much wider range of movement and can easily push into my my upper palm.

I do not have health insurance right so I am seeking some kind of opinion as to other options. I did schedule an appoint a few days from now to see an orthopedic specialist as a last resort.

The problem would not be frustrating if I had made the slightest bit of progress but even with 2-3 weeks of no physical activity (before getting back in the weight room), there was zero change in pain.

Thanks for your time. Please feel free to let me know what you think is going on.]]> jonathandalexander FingersFri, 11 May 2012 19:22:59 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,416,1109#msg-1109 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,416,1109#msg-1109 telemartnetwork ShouldersSat, 28 Apr 2012 08:34:39 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,953,1108#msg-1108 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,953,1108#msg-1108 telemartnetwork ShouldersSat, 28 Apr 2012 08:25:18 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,1103,1107#msg-1107 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,1103,1107#msg-1107 telemartnetwork ShouldersSat, 28 Apr 2012 08:19:10 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1089,1106#msg-1106 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1089,1106#msg-1106 telemartnetwork FingersSat, 28 Apr 2012 07:56:02 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,1105,1105#msg-1105 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,1105,1105#msg-1105
I've been climbing for about 4 years and have been training and climbing consistently (bouldering 3-4 times a week) for about 1 year now. This includes antagonist training of the forearm extensors (reverse wrist curls), triceps, internal rotator cuff muscles, and pronator training along with climbing specific strength exercises and climbing in general. I mainly boulder and am able to climb around the V5-6 range. About 8 years ago I broke my arm snowboarding near the wrist; fracturing the radius and buckling the ulna in my left arm (I am left-handed). When I climb, I do about a 30-45 minute warm up consisting of forearm stretches, light pull-ups, light bouldering/traversing, triceps and shoulder warm-ups. The problem I am having is when I get to the point of climbing where I am really cranking on a hold with my left arm, whether it be an open-hand crimp (I rarely full crimp in the gym) pinch, sloper, what have you, when I release the hold I have a small ache in the middle of my forearm (opposite the palm side, so in the extensor muscles) that sometime radiates throughout the length of the radius and ulna. The pain is rather short, however sometimes it will be an intermittent ache for several hours after climbing but nothing that is debilitating whatsoever. I am sometimes able to generate this same pain when I flex my hand being open (like opposite of a clenched fist) for over 15 seconds. Using my fingers to massage the area, the pain is normally isolated between the bones on my arm. My big question is if any of you think this pain is just an artifact of my broken arm years ago or some other issue. I've run out of ideas from researching
Given rest for about 3-5 days this pain will eventually go away, however every now and then it gets re-tweaked and the ache starts over again. My main goal is to see if anyone knows of a specific exercise that will target some form of muscle that is possibly out of balance to eliminate this problem or if the issue is just with the bones themselves due to the break years ago.
Please feel free to shoot out some ideas!]]> haggardd What else bothers you?Fri, 27 Apr 2012 00:19:47 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,516,1104#msg-1104 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,516,1104#msg-1104ultrasound technician.]]> louiebaton What else bothers you?Wed, 11 Apr 2012 21:02:51 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,1103,1103#msg-1103 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,1103,1103#msg-1103I'm a 29-year-old climber (mostly sport climbing and bouldering) who's been battling on-again-off-again posterior shoulder pain since about 2005 (I started climbing in 2000).

The pain is an aching, hard-to-pinpoint pain all around the left scapula and posterior shoulder that builds gradually during a climbing session and is most noticeable (at first) during rests between climbs/problems. The pain seems to be more correlated with volume and frequency of climbing than intensity of movement: it doesn't happen every time I climb but is much more likely if I'm climbing regularly than if I'm taking 2-3 days off between days of climbing. The pain typically subsides after an hour or two of rest but can remain noticeable as a low-level soreness for days. On light-pain days, it tends to respond relatively well to ibuprofen.

I've seen several PTs and orthopedic specialists over the years and have tried a host of shoulder-stabilizing exercises and stretches. The ortho I saw several times last year suspected a torn labrum, but my MRI showed no evidence of a torn labrum, just an area of persistent inflammation in the area of the supraspinatus. A steroid shot, followed by a period of rest, physical therapy, and more shoulder stabilization exercises, seemed to keep the pain at bay for several months. Once I started increasing the frequency of my climbing/bouldering sessions to more than once every three days, however, the pain returned.

For bouldering season (winter here in North Carolina), I was able to minimize the frequency of painful sessions by always taking two days off between sessions. Now, however, even that strategy seems to be failing despite continued attention to shoulder stabilization exercises and stretches.

Although climbing infrequently is better than not climbing at all, not being able to climb more than once every three days makes it virtually impossible to take a weekend roadtrip.

Any ideas?]]> edmclen ShouldersSun, 08 Apr 2012 14:29:22 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1102,1102#msg-1102 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1102,1102#msg-1102 philip360 FingersWed, 04 Apr 2012 06:40:50 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?1,1101,1101#msg-1101 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?1,1101,1101#msg-1101
I initially did this injury lifting a large flat pack box by the straps, by bracing my elbows against my hips and lifting up (to about 90 degrees) stacking in front of me. When it got to 90 degrees, I felt a distinct pain DEEP inside here:

[www.flickr.com]
[www.flickr.com]

Immediately after this, after I put the box down, I brought my arm up (hand up to shoulder) and flexed the muscles hard. This is when it really went OUCH.
Maybe a bit silly, but just for good measure, I did the same with the other arm, though not as hard. That almost went too, in the same spot.

After 3 days I returned to the wall, climbed 3 times over the next 2 weeks. I was hoping it would just go away. Obviously if anything I made it worse. Any climbing with my arm straight, was fine. No pain. Climbing with my arms bent, the pain increased the more they were bent.
So I decided enough was enough. I had already been to physio twice. She speculated a few things. Tendon damage. Worked acupuncture in the area which helped slightly for a day or two but over the next couple of weeks it didn't get any better. I have to lift alot at work but managed to avoid most lifting for a couple of weeks. Then one night it flared up and I was in excruciating pain. It swelled up first here:

[www.flickr.com]

Then the bicept went hard. Then below the funny bone. Next the nerve started playing up. My whole arm felt worn and lethargic. Numb hand / fingers. Armpit on fire. and common feeling/pain associated with pinched nerve along whole arm.
Went to get cat scan next day. Apparently nothing wrong with tendons, muscles, or nerve. I went to chiro, who immediately said my Radial Head was out. he knocked it back in and that made a huge difference. I thought I was getting better. Then it fired up again last night. He knocked it back for me today although it's still sore and I think there's something still wrong inside.

Sorry my description was so long. It took a while to write and my arm is sore again :(
This is killing me, not being able to climb. My only other hobby is writing music. So guitar, keyboard etc. No good.

ANY suggestions would be much appreciated x]]> nathancory ElbowsTue, 03 Apr 2012 14:01:42 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1089,1100#msg-1100 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1089,1100#msg-1100 pmcterry FingersSat, 31 Mar 2012 23:31:02 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?1,1074,1099#msg-1099 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?1,1074,1099#msg-1099 aimeerose ElbowsSat, 31 Mar 2012 23:27:35 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,1092,1098#msg-1098 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,1092,1098#msg-1098 aimeerose ShouldersSat, 31 Mar 2012 23:23:17 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?1,1094,1097#msg-1097 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?1,1094,1097#msg-1097 aimeerose ElbowsSat, 31 Mar 2012 23:16:01 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1090,1096#msg-1096 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1090,1096#msg-1096 aimeerose FingersSat, 31 Mar 2012 23:11:44 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1089,1095#msg-1095 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1089,1095#msg-1095 aimeerose FingersSat, 31 Mar 2012 23:10:39 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?1,1094,1094#msg-1094 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?1,1094,1094#msg-1094
Thanks!]]> keithbives ElbowsMon, 26 Mar 2012 07:19:38 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,1093,1093#msg-1093 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,1093,1093#msg-1093
I've broke my ACL (anterior cruciate ligament - knee) in November 2011. I've decided to try to live and climb without surgery (nonsurgical treatment - progressive physical therapy and rehabilitation).

I was wondering if you know someone with this problem? Is the knee stabile enough to climb normally at all (I'm climbing already but it's paifull to come to the crag)? What about bouldering (i'm not supposed to jump from high places any more)? What about multi-pitch rutes?

Thnx,
Maja :)]]> maja.cro What else bothers you?Tue, 20 Mar 2012 14:19:28 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,1092,1092#msg-1092 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,1092,1092#msg-1092
So 3-4 weeks ago I was bouldering and fell. I kind of hung on with my left arm as it happened and felt a crunch in my shoulder. I'd describe the area as in the softer area right below the bone that juts out to the side at the top of the arm. I had a lot of pain immediately after the fall, and couldnt raise my arm for the following five minutes. It seemed to improve pretty quickly after that and I was doing light climbing by the end of the night.

I didnt think much of it because the only things I found that caused pain were raising my arm straight up over my head and then pushing it further back, and hanging with my arms straight from rings. Climbing doesnt seem to bother it. Then the other day I did pushups and dips without pain, but the following morning I had a lot of dull pain while walking with a backpack.

Trying to find info on the internet has made me nervous because everything seems to say shoulder injuries=immediate doctor visit, but this doesnt seem like it warrants one. Any recovery tips? Im definitely not doing pushups again for a while. When is it safe to start stretching/doing shoulder strengthing exercises? Thanks. This site is great.]]> kjcnyc ShouldersSun, 18 Mar 2012 01:25:41 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,894,1091#msg-1091 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,894,1091#msg-1091 Crystal ShouldersThu, 08 Mar 2012 13:54:46 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1090,1090#msg-1090 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1090,1090#msg-1090
Thanks for any help
Sion]]> sionjones FingersWed, 07 Mar 2012 13:11:55 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1089,1089#msg-1089 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1089,1089#msg-1089 pmcterry FingersSat, 03 Mar 2012 05:59:39 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,1088,1088#msg-1088 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?8,1088,1088#msg-1088
About me: 23 - climbing for 2 years - mostly bouldering - no previous injury in that location - if it means anything: recently 'leveling up' and working v4s with a lot of dynos and heel and toe hooks.

Any thoughts?]]> yomango What else bothers you?Sat, 25 Feb 2012 15:19:36 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,1072,1087#msg-1087 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?3,1072,1087#msg-1087 aimeerose ShouldersFri, 24 Feb 2012 04:01:28 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1075,1086#msg-1086 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1075,1086#msg-1086 aimeerose FingersFri, 24 Feb 2012 03:55:16 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1076,1085#msg-1085 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,1076,1085#msg-1085 aimeerose FingersFri, 24 Feb 2012 03:53:11 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,960,1084#msg-1084 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,960,1084#msg-1084 aimeerose FingersFri, 24 Feb 2012 03:48:27 +0000 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,960,1083#msg-1083 http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,960,1083#msg-1083
I had some concerns about arthritis too, but they seem unfounded as I haven't been climbing long. Glad to hear it's probably not that. My plan is to not climb until the pain goes away, so hopefully it will not take a month to heal. Did you do any icing, taping, stretching, or take any ibuprofen to help it heal faster? Or just rest?]]> ludwig FingersThu, 23 Feb 2012 20:39:32 +0000